tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-77411062368448399862024-03-12T21:16:22.626-07:00Subtle as a Thrown RockLorienhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16771044572877731963noreply@blogger.comBlogger68125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7741106236844839986.post-10524745134758396272013-06-06T01:46:00.001-07:002013-06-06T01:46:42.935-07:00The Handout for my Roman Women's Clothing class<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;">This is the handout that accompanied the most recent class I taught with the assistance of my new roomie. I'm putting it up relatively soon after the class was taught, since it was taught on the Saturday of Memorial Day weekend!</span></span></div>
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<span class="apple-converted-space"><b><span style="background: white; color: #222222; font-size: 18.0pt;"><br /></span></b></span></div>
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<span class="apple-converted-space"><b><span style="background: white; color: #222222; font-size: 18.0pt;">Chic, not Shapeless<o:p></o:p></span></b></span></div>
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<span class="apple-converted-space"><b><span style="background: white; color: #222222; font-size: 14.0pt;">An Overview of Female
Garments, Accessories and Style from the <st1:place w:st="on">Roman Empire</st1:place><o:p></o:p></span></b></span></div>
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<span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="background: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.0pt;">Lady Petronia Casta and Lady Aemilia Rufinia<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="background: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.0pt;">Email: lorihaigh@gmail.com or superladygeneva@gmail.com<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="background: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.0pt;">The <st1:place w:st="on">Roman Empire</st1:place>
spans several centuries, from 27 BCE to 476 CE in the West, and 330-1453 CE for
the Eastern/Byzantine Empire. This class
will generally cover women’s garments from the <st1:place w:st="on">Western
Empire</st1:place>, and give an idea of how to construct and wear these
garments with an eye towards accuracy and comfort. It will also give tips on accessories and
hairstyles to complete the look.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="apple-converted-space"><b><span style="background: white; color: #222222; font-size: 14.0pt;">Parts of
the <i>Synthesis</i><o:p></o:p></span></b></span></div>
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<span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="background: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.0pt;">Let’s start working from the skin
out. Roman female undergarments are a
bit controversial, like most underwear from early periods. We have no surviving garments designed for
breast support that I’ve come across. We
do have Latin terms for such a garment, <i>strophium</i>
and <i>mamillare</i>, and some mosaics,
frescos and a few statues that lead us to believe that such a garment existed,
at least in some circumstances. The mosaics
that depict such a garment are colloquially known as the “Roman Bikini Girls,”
and show a number of women engaged in some form of exercise, and are frequently
referred to as gymnasts (Fig. 1). The
frescos that happen to show women in enough of a state of undress to display
the <i>strophium</i> are frequently of an
erotic subject matter (Fig. 2). The
statue below displaying a <i>strophium</i>
is of the Goddess Venus (Fig. 3).<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="background: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.0pt;">Along with the <i>strophium</i>, the Bikini Girls are wearing a form of underwear, called
<i>subligaria</i> (Fig. 1). There is an extant pair made from leather on
display in the <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placetype w:st="on">Museum</st1:placetype>
of <st1:placename w:st="on">London</st1:placename></st1:place> (Fig. 4). No one is sure if they were an every day
garment or only worn during exercise and certain weeks of the month. This leather pair is the only extant pair; if
any were made of linen or wool, they’ve been lost to time.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="background: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.0pt;">The next layer out from the
undergarments would be one or more layers of <i>tunica</i>. Multiple layers
could be worn for warmth. These long
garments can be wide tube-like garments in the case of the <i>tunica recta</i> (Fig. 5) or “straight tunic” or could have long sleeves,
a <i>tunica manicata</i> (Fig. 6). Roman clothing was segregated into male and
female categories, and wearing items considered the opposite carried a bit of a
social stigma. Women were allowed to
wear long sleeves, men shouldn’t.
Likewise it was considered unfeminine to wear short <i>tunicas </i>or to have your <i>tunica</i>
be white.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="background: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.0pt;">Over the various <i>tunicas</i>, come various types of outer garment, and what one would
wear is dependant on their station in life.
If unmarried, a woman would wear a fancy <i>tunica</i> as her outermost dress layer. Only married women were supposed to wear the <i>stola</i>, a long, sleeveless overdress
(Figs. 9-13). There are several styles
of shoulder treatment on a <i>stola</i>:
splitting the fabric for the neck and gathering the shoulder line into a bundle
(Fig. 9), a simple strap joining the front and back (Fig. 10), brooches pinning
the back to the front (Fig. 11), gathering the top line of fabric into a
binding (Fig. 12), even a braided strap joining the front and back (Fig. 13). The <i>stola</i>
could be either a solid color, or have embellishment, called <i>institia</i>, along the hem or on the
straps.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="background: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.0pt;">Over top of the <i>tunicas</i> and the <i>stola</i>, if
a woman was going outdoors, she would wear a large rectangular wrap called a <i>palla</i> (Figs. 14 and 15). This wrap could be draped over the head and
pinned to her hair for more coverage (Fig. 14), and was designed to cover the
body for modesty. A special version of
the <i>palla</i> was the <i>flammeum</i>, a yellow/saffron colored veil
worn by brides on their wedding day. <i>Togas</i> were the outer garment for
prostitutes and women convicted of adultery, specifically because it was a
man’s garment (Fig. 16).<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="apple-converted-space"><b><span style="background: white; color: #222222; font-size: 14.0pt;">How to
make the garments<o:p></o:p></span></b></span></div>
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<span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="background: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.0pt;">Romans had access to linen, hemp, some
silks and cottons, but the most common fabric for Roman clothing is wool. That being said, the weight of the fabric is
going to make the biggest difference in how the garment drapes, and drape is
part of what makes the clothing “fit” right.
Light weight fabrics like gauze, crepe and chiffon will hang in small
tight folds like the images. Choose the
fabric you will use for these garments based off the weight. If you are looking to wear Roman clothing
year round instead of just as summer garments, try wool crepes or tricotines
and soft, light-weight silks for insulation and wear several layers. For summer, limit the number of layers; try
thinner linens, breezy cotton gauzes or blends of vegetative fibers. To test if a fabric is light weight enough,
gather up small folds in your hand and hold it in the air. If the folds stay relatively small all the
way down, it is light weight enough to use.
If the folds get larger or don’t fold much at all, it’s probably either
too heavy or too stiff to use.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="background: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.0pt;">These garments don’t really have much in
the way of cutting patterns, as the vast majority of them are constructed from
rectangles. The <i>strophium</i> is a long band of fabric, roughly 8-11 inches wide by
120” long, and wrapped around the breasts to keep them contained. This wrap can be seen in both Fig. 2 and Fig.
3.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="background: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.0pt;">The extant pair <i>subligaria</i> were an hourglass shape, with ties on the side like
modern bikini bottoms. Theory is that
women wore this shaped pair of undergarments, and men wore wrapped loincloths.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="background: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.0pt;">The <i>tunica
recta</i> was woven as one long piece and a fold was placed on one side with a
seam up the other side. Modern fabric
widths make this a little more difficult.
The look can be accomplished by cutting two pieces of fabric, the full
width by the wearer’s shoulder to hem measurement plus some length for
blousing. The two pieces are sewn most
of the way along the selvedges, leaving enough opening at the top along the
selvedge for the wearer’s arms to go through.
The top of the tube is hemmed and locations along it are stitched
together to join the front and the back.
It is more comfortable to allow a little more drape in the center front
than the center back section so the <i>tunica</i>
doesn’t strangle the wearer. An
alternative version of this garment is made by taking one piece of fabric twice
the length of the wearer’s shoulder to hem plus blousing, and cutting a
horizontal slit in the middle for the head, and sewing the selvedges the same
as the <i>tunica recta</i> that is open on
top (Fig. 7).<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="background: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.0pt;">The <i>tunica
manicata </i>was most likely sewn like the <i>tunica
recta</i> with sleeves inserted into the side seams. I’ve created a method that works for me and
approximates the look while being more comfortable in my opinion. Instead of two panels that are the same width
across front and back, I use a very narrow panel for the back, and a much wider
panel for the front. There are also side
panels added that are a shorter length than the front or back, the height being
made up for by the sleeves. This gives a
garment that doesn’t fall off the shoulders (though there are several images of
just such a thing happening, see Fig. 8) but still gives ample fullness for
walking.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="background: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.0pt;">The <i>stola</i>
is also very simple rectangular pieces, with either the top edge of the fabric
gathered into a band, gathered and stitched to a strap, hemmed and pinned
similarly to the <i>tunicas</i>, or there is
a vertical slit in flat fabric and that is gathered. The panels are usually made from the full
width of the fabric, and are shoulder to hem plus blousing in length.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="apple-converted-space"><i><span style="background: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.0pt;">Pallas</span></i></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="background: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.0pt;"> are also rectangles.
(Sense a theme?) Fabrics 45-54”
and 2-2½ yards in length work well for a <i>palla</i>,
or one could use a sari, as that is how I arrived at that measurement.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="apple-converted-space"><i><span style="background: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.0pt;">Togas</span></i></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="background: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.0pt;"> are roughly the height of the wearer and two times their
height in length. Early <i>togas</i> were cut in a semicircular shape,
while later <i>togas</i> were cut more
complexly. Both <i>pallas</i> and <i>togas</i> are
draped starting with the ends in front over the left arm, around the back,
under the right arm, and back over the left.
See Fig. 16 for both draping techniques and cutting diagrams for togas. I will often start with the tail hanging down
the back first, as this makes adjusting the garment to go up over my head
easier.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="apple-converted-space"><b><span style="background: white; color: #222222; font-size: 14.0pt;">Accessories<o:p></o:p></span></b></span></div>
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<span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="background: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.0pt;">The most important accessory for this
outfit is a belt. Women’s belts were
called <i>cingulum</i> and could be a cord
or a woven sash. The <i>cingulum</i> is what makes the garments fit
in a flattering manner. It should be
fairly narrow, no more than three inches wide and long enough to wrap around
the body twice and still hang down past the knees, approximately 5 yards in
length. Center the belt between the
breasts and right underneath them on the front, wrap the <i>cingulum</i> around to the back and cross it there or give it a twist
to keep it tight, wrap the ends back to the front and tie it tightly around
your waist. The belt should cinch in all
the fabric as closely to your body as you can handle in order to give waist
definition and make the garment flattering to your figure. Blouse the extra length over the part of the
belt over the waist, and distribute the folds of the skirt evenly around the
body.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="background: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.0pt;">Roman women’s shoes could be as
complicated as the garments were simple.
Rich colors, elaborate cutwork, gold leafing, and fancy laced patterns
are all exhibited on extant Roman shoes.
Women wore mostly enclosed slippers or low boots when outdoors, which
could be worn with ankle-high, woven-fabric, socks in cold weather. Sandals, similar to modern thong sandals,
were worn primarily indoors, though many statues show women wearing sandals and
<i>pallas</i>. Ladies’ shoes were often made of leather or
fabrics, and certain colors were reserved for certain stations in life. Red was reserved for the senatorial class,
yellow/saffron was reserved for brides and for expensive courtesans.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="background: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.0pt;">Jewelry came in many and varied
styles. Gold was preferred, and emeralds
and pearls were frequent favorites.
Earrings were usually drop or dangling styles. Necklaces can be strings of beads, chains
with stones, have pendants, or granulation.
Fibulas were used to fasten clothing and hold garments in place. They can be simple wires, elaborate
“crossbow” shapes, or complex enameled affairs.
Bracelets and anklets feature in mosaics and paintings. Rings often feature cameos carved in semi
precious stones. Many paintings feature
women wearing gold laurel wreaths, which may not work for many Scadians. There are also paintings that feature a gold
hairnet that sits on top of the head. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="background: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.0pt;">Along with shoes and jewelry, Roman
women’s hairstyles often display high levels of complexity. The simplest hairstyle of early Roman women
was all the hair pulled back to a low bun.
Later styles incorporated elaborate and complex braiding and curling to
create height and large buns. I can go
on for quite some time on Roman hairstyles, contact me if you’d like more
information on it.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="background: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.0pt;">We hope this helps when putting together
your Roman clothing. Please feel free to
contact us for more information about any of the garments discussed in this
class, or for shopping advice.</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihDLUXFJJgRj4FhSu7W6qNr6PQKF1_dbi3eHHRHE4RX6PRqltBqOlZAZ39JwnlpPKR7S49BFLoMpFOLP4ZYgX2gxpCcKYzORJdZSI5Z9PxV0DaCixw2aQ29iPYH3NuX19ECF9o7-MT9n9G/s1600/Roman+Bikini+Girls.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="233" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihDLUXFJJgRj4FhSu7W6qNr6PQKF1_dbi3eHHRHE4RX6PRqltBqOlZAZ39JwnlpPKR7S49BFLoMpFOLP4ZYgX2gxpCcKYzORJdZSI5Z9PxV0DaCixw2aQ29iPYH3NuX19ECF9o7-MT9n9G/s320/Roman+Bikini+Girls.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="background: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.0pt;">Fig. 1 </span></span>4th Century AD mosaic found near the
ancient Roman Villa del Casale in <st1:state w:st="on">Sicily</st1:state>,
M Disdero 2006</div>
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<span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="background: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.0pt;">Fig. 2 Fresco found in the House of the
Centenery in <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Pompeii</st1:place></st1:city></span></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13pt;"> </span></div>
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<span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="background: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.0pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13pt;">Fig. 3 Venus from Museum Burg </span><st1:place style="color: #222222; font-size: 13pt;" w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Linn</st1:city>, <st1:country-region w:st="on">Germany</st1:country-region></st1:place></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13pt;">Fig. 4 Bikini-like leather </span><i style="color: #222222; font-size: 13pt;">subligaculum</i><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13pt;"> found in excavations of
Roman </span>London (<st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placetype w:st="on">Museum</st1:placetype>
of <st1:placename w:st="on">London</st1:placename></st1:place>)</div>
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<span class="apple-converted-space"><i><span style="background: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.0pt;">Tunica</span></i></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="background: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.0pt;"> Types</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOpomONUzn0zDUSBdfvO6rXkUCknwzvPc-2nEYGZRWJ3jeVAoYMJ_CRMGwTtfaTL0BEFgwk4tuMvOYuyvXB3VSnhuwdjAlixDDM3QvMOVAagDOCDPrL43U71Gu3Te4CoEdBfYyp_lyjySg/s1600/photo+17.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOpomONUzn0zDUSBdfvO6rXkUCknwzvPc-2nEYGZRWJ3jeVAoYMJ_CRMGwTtfaTL0BEFgwk4tuMvOYuyvXB3VSnhuwdjAlixDDM3QvMOVAagDOCDPrL43U71Gu3Te4CoEdBfYyp_lyjySg/s320/photo+17.jpg" width="121" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinH04U6ezbGjucxqhWd6INeWlW0XULf9dV5eC-W91LvxHKnjUMdqwRatIYCqz_eMoT9Qw-Ozbj_dKz8Bcjgkb5n-JmhxbveFsb_rlSeoPTF3YGvd-9P8yN8eZDOy4zFglNGyizuRbbiLxA/s1600/photo+23.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinH04U6ezbGjucxqhWd6INeWlW0XULf9dV5eC-W91LvxHKnjUMdqwRatIYCqz_eMoT9Qw-Ozbj_dKz8Bcjgkb5n-JmhxbveFsb_rlSeoPTF3YGvd-9P8yN8eZDOy4zFglNGyizuRbbiLxA/s320/photo+23.jpg" width="212" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13pt;">Fig. 5 </span><i style="color: #222222; font-size: 13pt;">Tunica Recta </i><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13pt;">Fig.
6 </span><i style="color: #222222; font-size: 13pt;">Tunica Manicata</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf6oqgOTW-pkHTFTy1kjj88fORNV_Ds4UsK-QzGi33_37r9IFx30vIpfBFW96IwF_2TWnJ6yDmER9_PFV10yK8nn7DSk4ZQDFnQz3Bnlnl2bnUtGi3yHP4CoY94fGgBJme2UIMNgMThu49/s1600/photo+12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf6oqgOTW-pkHTFTy1kjj88fORNV_Ds4UsK-QzGi33_37r9IFx30vIpfBFW96IwF_2TWnJ6yDmER9_PFV10yK8nn7DSk4ZQDFnQz3Bnlnl2bnUtGi3yHP4CoY94fGgBJme2UIMNgMThu49/s200/photo+12.jpg" width="167" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ7DT8y6kJ-QPqLgYe0UthkHOIK9Oi1FU5BuntvVCxVzW_yloom9t4u6l-gcRhW0qH9znCHpUqlINGGjkhUHxBWujg-MX0CAwhEsuKK5VwNXlBcXg3-vQnCc4UCMMYxfVa6WgIluOOzaKQ/s1600/Wall+Painting+Theseus,+slayer+of+the+Minotaur+Page+25.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ7DT8y6kJ-QPqLgYe0UthkHOIK9Oi1FU5BuntvVCxVzW_yloom9t4u6l-gcRhW0qH9znCHpUqlINGGjkhUHxBWujg-MX0CAwhEsuKK5VwNXlBcXg3-vQnCc4UCMMYxfVa6WgIluOOzaKQ/s200/Wall+Painting+Theseus,+slayer+of+the+Minotaur+Page+25.jpg" width="182" /></a></div>
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<span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="background: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.0pt;">Fig. 7 <i>Tunica Recta</i> with open top Fig.
8 Wide necked <i>tunica</i> falling off the shoulders<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="apple-converted-space"><i><span style="background: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.0pt;">Stola</span></i></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="background: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.0pt;"> Types<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-e3TydOmkh6JK9D73IzlLo6oO0dNKjf7tMfP1SJJpPyokvjqtdVKXHUUX1tjE6owbMR3pEsO8PyyEv9xUnAMpeIPYD0UftMXwuEyAPhqFpAiZNO_oF1TCM1-xpl-K94SIHS7cvgUMmhaH/s1600/color+5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-e3TydOmkh6JK9D73IzlLo6oO0dNKjf7tMfP1SJJpPyokvjqtdVKXHUUX1tjE6owbMR3pEsO8PyyEv9xUnAMpeIPYD0UftMXwuEyAPhqFpAiZNO_oF1TCM1-xpl-K94SIHS7cvgUMmhaH/s200/color+5.jpg" width="103" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYrSwUNcEBnjnM1yz4jhkJaf2CRe4EerEMA_ryC0refpr8IPzxnsd-_pzNRRAuYv6jg5G5sSn0KiA_VxdC88bEktJlDWTb50X4b1SOCa07tTG-hf7k3nq178509qrwOp35MYX7SO48f2bK/s1600/color3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYrSwUNcEBnjnM1yz4jhkJaf2CRe4EerEMA_ryC0refpr8IPzxnsd-_pzNRRAuYv6jg5G5sSn0KiA_VxdC88bEktJlDWTb50X4b1SOCa07tTG-hf7k3nq178509qrwOp35MYX7SO48f2bK/s200/color3.jpg" width="136" /></a></div>
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<span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="background: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.0pt;">Fig. 9 V-necked Fig. 10 Thin
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_vIpIAeB5BGXwJLfenamhJpToVfu2xwUXnrOpVw0_T5-m3W9oWV9kmqDn1ai4FaX-63QeKjN5iJuphQOyK8rUdwCMlNroDpnsMbg1rA6omtfZMUIlHCc8jfLBqYLIPF9ykkoo9tMfbSI7/s1600/photo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_vIpIAeB5BGXwJLfenamhJpToVfu2xwUXnrOpVw0_T5-m3W9oWV9kmqDn1ai4FaX-63QeKjN5iJuphQOyK8rUdwCMlNroDpnsMbg1rA6omtfZMUIlHCc8jfLBqYLIPF9ykkoo9tMfbSI7/s200/photo.jpg" width="126" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_PjbIDftPFNlOvWo3JuxJjMKV9SRG3KaCV9jm3c57hNBQYwjoYWv8XQdOCk9NSxRGF2LbHcEsi2x6B7oRoumlqp4QQNa80NpQv3e98bH6-XgOsQbkN2x58TLnQZwqE0S02uUWkXCUwCOR/s1600/photo+(2).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_PjbIDftPFNlOvWo3JuxJjMKV9SRG3KaCV9jm3c57hNBQYwjoYWv8XQdOCk9NSxRGF2LbHcEsi2x6B7oRoumlqp4QQNa80NpQv3e98bH6-XgOsQbkN2x58TLnQZwqE0S02uUWkXCUwCOR/s200/photo+(2).jpg" width="161" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3TGoDBhpt8iUCvc8WDU3PGcuQGR2e2vITi3FW8rj4bnxHY4iOXFD5ITOK0riUqZr7fivYC3ztCe0wraQmQgKct1WbrH2lFBr5RZ6SxFXlR2NkG0rtTiayhi-28lZNvbsMhFgA1rOQqrnC/s1600/photo+(1).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3TGoDBhpt8iUCvc8WDU3PGcuQGR2e2vITi3FW8rj4bnxHY4iOXFD5ITOK0riUqZr7fivYC3ztCe0wraQmQgKct1WbrH2lFBr5RZ6SxFXlR2NkG0rtTiayhi-28lZNvbsMhFgA1rOQqrnC/s200/photo+(1).jpg" width="125" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13pt;">Fig. 11 Brooches Fig. 12 Banded Fig. 13 Braided</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi-KJOQQrbYOwt2AMpnN8qXhJqHTbE5cqTjf1b1B8xWmZVEgjweihmbyz0xUivxWwLeWXNLAy_I4yX5MXWExP94G9vtlqmmxThB113ZlqFR0Mr3Bc0Mr3ROdS4a-SS3bTdt4FzX9ugsK5t/s1600/palla.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi-KJOQQrbYOwt2AMpnN8qXhJqHTbE5cqTjf1b1B8xWmZVEgjweihmbyz0xUivxWwLeWXNLAy_I4yX5MXWExP94G9vtlqmmxThB113ZlqFR0Mr3Bc0Mr3ROdS4a-SS3bTdt4FzX9ugsK5t/s200/palla.jpg" width="96" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhscttVdAdkIC7Z9ILsHT1omGR6Es4Sf8Qjuf8J_PaP0IOI-29sWsqKo619esnARcSVt1HhFArHtXemAe3y_avS21tWFBWO5CkNcIjnt1RDzKFSh1bjjiJJ9m86S4R1SzHeqtvyfwNevO9B/s1600/color+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhscttVdAdkIC7Z9ILsHT1omGR6Es4Sf8Qjuf8J_PaP0IOI-29sWsqKo619esnARcSVt1HhFArHtXemAe3y_avS21tWFBWO5CkNcIjnt1RDzKFSh1bjjiJJ9m86S4R1SzHeqtvyfwNevO9B/s200/color+4.jpg" width="156" /></a></div>
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<span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="background: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.0pt;">Fig. 14 Wrapped <i>palla</i> over Fig. 15
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<span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="background: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.0pt;">Fig. 16 How to wrap a <i>toga</i>; 5, 6, and 7 being toga shapes<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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Lorienhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16771044572877731963noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7741106236844839986.post-54408149554468426872013-03-08T16:57:00.000-08:002013-03-08T16:58:10.109-08:00Smart phone post...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAUvxHkgeNLP96m_Pagh6YRLLu9qu5uSTwn4Rte9AQedqox8_fvGH2WrAXcNg747KHbLlKof3ZUTTk31e1vGOIxoGjlkAZN8zadSDvx5Pf8Qk2BJK6VKBKeh5XWXIn-poLID3_C0iCI0wV/s1600/IMG_20130308_162358.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAUvxHkgeNLP96m_Pagh6YRLLu9qu5uSTwn4Rte9AQedqox8_fvGH2WrAXcNg747KHbLlKof3ZUTTk31e1vGOIxoGjlkAZN8zadSDvx5Pf8Qk2BJK6VKBKeh5XWXIn-poLID3_C0iCI0wV/s320/IMG_20130308_162358.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
First update I'm trying from my new smart phone. I finally took a picture of the Overly Ambitious Embroidery Project of Doom. I have, in fact, finished one of the colors in it. The slate blue in the knotwork on the back of the neck is finished and there is just a little in the center front to bring the color around.<br />
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The elements are a combination of a couple different manuscripts, and I specifically blended a few images of the Eagle of Saint John to create a "hawk" because of Himself's arms. Much of the design us from various pages from the Book of Kells. I keep thinking that at some point I'll embroider some cuffs to go with it, but as the collar has taken two years and frequent lost motivation, we'll have to see.Lorienhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16771044572877731963noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7741106236844839986.post-63247891268852193772013-01-29T03:07:00.001-08:002013-01-30T00:20:31.426-08:00Finally some pictures...<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi2MHOaAx9u3NwhJXBRtUEn-YnwyzkLTfcYAJZS5MjJt6fWhPlH1PAVUaxaZTl__0AYfUlIwlJvu38oHAjVDNQYCDhEQsWYL7fW5NhO5bFm9XMP_S3-7y2LV3sau0C9qUSZFp2h-5rrn4-/s1600/Jed+Houp.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi2MHOaAx9u3NwhJXBRtUEn-YnwyzkLTfcYAJZS5MjJt6fWhPlH1PAVUaxaZTl__0AYfUlIwlJvu38oHAjVDNQYCDhEQsWYL7fW5NhO5bFm9XMP_S3-7y2LV3sau0C9qUSZFp2h-5rrn4-/s400/Jed+Houp.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fancy new dags to wear with an old hat</td></tr>
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Even if they are crappy phone pictures of Himself!<br />
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These were taken in the Doubletree Hotel in Portland the Saturday of 12th Night. They are clearly not the best of photos, I'd like to take some better ones eventually, but this lets me put up <i>something</i> at least.<br />
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You can tell from his happy smiling face that he really likes his new houp. I'm proud of the fact that I got his houppelande out of 8.5 yards. Yes, that is a floor-length, giant, drapey-sleeved houppelande out of 8<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 11pt;">½</span> yards.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdasa1u8gLOTFEK0lFk3HFS2HRz9hJOsAZjRyM55yzHIGsQ-2WYzGZs_jiGneVowMO6vb9VPo_WrHlKwS-y76543Jd7j6_gjFLQLIy0fKcahAYcyJjvtNwo7eECk4IU_nMlD3vye3TrAel/s1600/Jed+Houp2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdasa1u8gLOTFEK0lFk3HFS2HRz9hJOsAZjRyM55yzHIGsQ-2WYzGZs_jiGneVowMO6vb9VPo_WrHlKwS-y76543Jd7j6_gjFLQLIy0fKcahAYcyJjvtNwo7eECk4IU_nMlD3vye3TrAel/s400/Jed+Houp2.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Showing off the pouch he made to go with it,<br />
and the tenner which was a wedding present.</td></tr>
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How you ask? I took the lessons taught us by rectilinear construction and turned them on their sides! Ignoring the sleeves, which took up just under three yards, the body panels are made of "gores" cut just like making inserts for skirts on T-tunics.<br />
<br />
I measured his shoulder to hem and cut a full width panel of the fabric, a light weight wool gifted to me years ago when I thought I would make a Cranach gown out of it. (I was young, I didn't realize it was too light weight when I fell in love with the color) Luckily I was lazy, and my best friend didn't mind me re-purposing her gift into something for my Hubby.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGpQifVS6p2I1o-_0N2oV94FRJ-dOtMzjvYBz6zRtiHO4d-gj4E3tekGVPyGCdAmhS5r8LvLhcqb1sysD0FZvspDmNTPxCgONZk5sABIQiD1HUORilRMXq7XiAVQBXVBRczAAtYGU4GYSj/s1600/crappy+ms+paint+diagram.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGpQifVS6p2I1o-_0N2oV94FRJ-dOtMzjvYBz6zRtiHO4d-gj4E3tekGVPyGCdAmhS5r8LvLhcqb1sysD0FZvspDmNTPxCgONZk5sABIQiD1HUORilRMXq7XiAVQBXVBRczAAtYGU4GYSj/s320/crappy+ms+paint+diagram.bmp" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">First Crappy MS Paint Diagram</td></tr>
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Back to the cutting. The body is made from three full width panels of fabric, the first measuring from shoulder to floor with hem allowance, the second being back panels and a couple inches longer so they drag the floor when he walks (not a train, but just long enough to be imposing), and the third full width panel is halfway between the length of the two. All three panels were folded in half, and cut into eight wedges using the cutting layout show in this crappy MS Paint diagram, <b>not to scale</b>. The short end of the wedge is really all that mattered, his shoulder seam length was about six inches long, so each short end was an inch with seam allowance. The other side of the wedge was whatever it worked out to be.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWxjalyIAcERrgoLTvAdsQUTT4A8sBpSECwkEvPWoyEaEK6QYyVOp9n21yBXGKBU3TDplnWu0ZrQJkmILCK_uyO-YVw0qvfevY5mdngqyQfIdwYwA9sKpzOtdLdStood57g5shBSMZCfkI/s1600/also+crappy+ms+paint+diagram.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWxjalyIAcERrgoLTvAdsQUTT4A8sBpSECwkEvPWoyEaEK6QYyVOp9n21yBXGKBU3TDplnWu0ZrQJkmILCK_uyO-YVw0qvfevY5mdngqyQfIdwYwA9sKpzOtdLdStood57g5shBSMZCfkI/s320/also+crappy+ms+paint+diagram.bmp" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Second Crappy MS Paint Diagram</td></tr>
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The pieces were then arranged into a circular shape, the shortest four in center front, the longest four in the center back and the middle four arranged along the sides, two wedges for each quarter of the body.<br />
The second crappy MS Paint diagram shows the layout of one of the front panels, <b>totally not to scale</b>.<br />
<br />
Doing the body panels this way meant I had practically no scrap left over from cutting. This cutting method is great on a solid color houp because you can barely see the seam lines, and sewing straight to bias forces the fabric into draped lines at the floor.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhir4zznDViI7zXAJ-qJ_ZECPF8L9hJedsuqDPwq6HSt8Tet4X9fh9FEGK26nESAxs7xSGVk9sglFhJQLeWwT9IZRLFLIixsgFiE4aRZndCAFlTBZUq0psDNPiddBJ8hPoJ7tqrtRspln5p/s1600/crappy+ms+paint+sleeve+diagram.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhir4zznDViI7zXAJ-qJ_ZECPF8L9hJedsuqDPwq6HSt8Tet4X9fh9FEGK26nESAxs7xSGVk9sglFhJQLeWwT9IZRLFLIixsgFiE4aRZndCAFlTBZUq0psDNPiddBJ8hPoJ7tqrtRspln5p/s320/crappy+ms+paint+sleeve+diagram.bmp" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crappy MS Paint Sleeve Diagram</td></tr>
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The sleeves are done in a strange fashion that was really hard for me to wrap my brain around. Himself's knight's lady is a Laurel, and a good friend of his. She's done a few houppelandes and when I asked her advice she said to make it like an angel wing sleeve, but to put the S-curve into the straight part of the half oval instead of the curved part. This causes the seam to fall straight down the back, and the curved edge to fall back from the wrist, more or less keeping it completely out of anything you reach for. The dags get cut into that curved edge, and I used a template made from a 3x5 card to trace them out. I intended to do a gold leafed pattern on the sleeve of his 12th Night Houp, but I ran out of time/brains to figure it out.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4iA0Tw-7_d4-u2nnp0liQ1N4pG2JGtIIjU2t0Id-NoiePhK1olOoqFGlhVvRPxzBSceIJ5Fk8qhSinge_n0LqhlCdjrJqpVrP6fhv3qm1cbI5vzSOWPBGfi6Aeh2hwLfSv0NWwgaFof5j/s1600/les-tres-riches-heures-du-duc-de-berry-janvier-january-by-jean-limbourg.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4iA0Tw-7_d4-u2nnp0liQ1N4pG2JGtIIjU2t0Id-NoiePhK1olOoqFGlhVvRPxzBSceIJ5Fk8qhSinge_n0LqhlCdjrJqpVrP6fhv3qm1cbI5vzSOWPBGfi6Aeh2hwLfSv0NWwgaFof5j/s200/les-tres-riches-heures-du-duc-de-berry-janvier-january-by-jean-limbourg.jpg" width="184" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://a1reproductions.com/les-tres-riches-heures-du-duc-de-berry-janvier-january-by-jean-limbourg-oil-painting.html">A repro poster site</a></td></tr>
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I love the thriftiness of this layout for the body. I'm already planning to make him more houppelandes eventually, since I've decided this year is about making him new garb. I'm only allowing myself to start one new project for me, I'm trying to make everything else for him or for our roommate. I'd like to do a shorter length houp with rectangular pleated-in, gold embellished sleeves like the cup bearer in the January image of Tres Riches on the far left. This is one of the main inspirations for the pouch he made, and we've developed some theories about pouches that should make for an interesting A&S entry. My tenure as the Baronial A&S Champion is coming to a close, he's planning to enter the pouch into the competition.<br />
<br />
Hope this helps save some people a little fabric when making a houppelande. I don't know how well my theory would work with a brocade, but for a solid color wool, I like the way it works.Lorienhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16771044572877731963noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7741106236844839986.post-67245062221163435722013-01-03T03:46:00.001-08:002013-01-03T03:46:17.358-08:00Working on the Houppelande...I'm testing a construction theory that if it works, could revolutionize the houppelande.... I realize that's kind of a silly thing to say. Lets go with could revolutionize the recreation of the houppelande? I'm using a lovely light weight blue wool I was gifted with years ago when I thought I would make a Cranach gown out of it. (The wool is way to thin for rolled pleats so it's better off here.)<br />
<br />
I'm trying out this theory where the body isn't made with quarter circles, but instead multiple "gores". I put these in quotation marks because it really isn't a gore without going into the fabric of the main body, but it's the way I've been thinking about it, since that's how I cut them out. I cut out 24 wedges from the fabric and assembled them for the main body.<br />
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I'll go into more detail later, hopefully today, but for now I need to clean up and head to bed.Lorienhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16771044572877731963noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7741106236844839986.post-53038902192803587452012-12-24T21:03:00.001-08:002013-01-03T03:46:34.507-08:00Everyone knows if I promise something as a Christmas present...not to expect it before March....<br />
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I cut out the roommate's apron-dress tonight. I'm hoping to have it all sewn up tonight or tomorrow and wrapped for her to open when she gets back on the 26th. The apron is a good probability, it's all cut out and made of a thick lush teal wool from Pendleton, so I don't have to finish the seams. I've also read somewhere the theory that Norse sewed their seam allowances on the <i>outside</i> of a garment and the decorative seam treatments are designed to finish the edges in a visible way. It's an interesting theory and I'm giving it some thought, although not for Wednesday. The garment is intended for An Tir's 12th night, so I also need to get the under dress cut out next week.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpmtRzvfAzUyd8RKYg6AtWgqK3s2RDCxazqN4tj51aydSfRuFPWj905jEn6_6KdTxztXf1fyMzxdFyLUo9Kc9bYNBt365yeo0lRppC7j24llyssbuueAHV1nECX7POyTuq9FGLPfhodllc/s1600/Extant+Houp.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpmtRzvfAzUyd8RKYg6AtWgqK3s2RDCxazqN4tj51aydSfRuFPWj905jEn6_6KdTxztXf1fyMzxdFyLUo9Kc9bYNBt365yeo0lRppC7j24llyssbuueAHV1nECX7POyTuq9FGLPfhodllc/s320/Extant+Houp.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.kostym.cz/Anglicky/1_Originaly/01_Goticke/I_01_26.htm">Extant Houppelande 1396</a></td></tr>
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Also somewhere in the next couple months I promised The Boy a floor length, angel-wing sleeved houppelande as his Christmas present. I have the wool, I just haven't quite figured out the cutting pattern I want to use. The circle style has its advantages in simplicity, but isn't really fabric efficient. Also the extant example is believed to be made from multiple "wedges" cut much like gores are cut for other dresses. Of course I can't find the website I saw that on before... I'm thinking about doing the wedges because the fabric I'm using is a plain blue wool which means I don't have to worry about an up and a down on it.<br />
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I'd like to finish it before 12th Night, but I'm not sure. I've got a pair of braies mostly finished, and a shirt cut out and partially sewn. I'd really like to get a pair of hose to go with it finished, and a doublet to go under, since that would be most accurate, but I don't know how likely the doublet is any time soon. I have a heavy red linen that I think would look good for the hose, I just need to find the time to pattern them, and eventually I'll get them sewn. I'm thinking maybe a green or black linen doublet for under the blue houp, because those colors would look really good with the red hose.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKdgTEiYQsU6p0ForjMoYBCtFfLdrtkuD-szQvpXS6wNLy7CxMEHnHcWZyQjkdGyS60SiT6g8VegStGLhMZSXtLvTChIBYczGk5rQf0TKtsGU5B2nbDZ8Q40o9jk8OGPHSHTf39IphEzGn/s1600/Les_Tres_Riches_Heures_du_duc_de_Berry_avril_detail.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKdgTEiYQsU6p0ForjMoYBCtFfLdrtkuD-szQvpXS6wNLy7CxMEHnHcWZyQjkdGyS60SiT6g8VegStGLhMZSXtLvTChIBYczGk5rQf0TKtsGU5B2nbDZ8Q40o9jk8OGPHSHTf39IphEzGn/s200/Les_Tres_Riches_Heures_du_duc_de_Berry_avril_detail.jpg" width="190" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Les_Tres_Riches_Heures_du_duc_de_Berry_avril_detail.jpg">April</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsqTmPjZorOuR11l_nmO3Jw1JBrBYz-l6jOp2fJ-D8NBlrynovD_PTPNaPlj1L7Kd1WDkxBqb3Wi3wqeT6TDiCHGgvuDyWSoO6IQ6BBuNtfhDEA986tHIv0BK2nZ4t4BBQbYpTE4wja9tz/s1600/Les_Tr%C3%A8s_Riches_Heures_du_duc_de_Berry_aout.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsqTmPjZorOuR11l_nmO3Jw1JBrBYz-l6jOp2fJ-D8NBlrynovD_PTPNaPlj1L7Kd1WDkxBqb3Wi3wqeT6TDiCHGgvuDyWSoO6IQ6BBuNtfhDEA986tHIv0BK2nZ4t4BBQbYpTE4wja9tz/s200/Les_Tr%C3%A8s_Riches_Heures_du_duc_de_Berry_aout.jpg" width="121" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Les_Tr%C3%A8s_Riches_Heures_du_duc_de_Berry_aout.jpg">August</a></td></tr>
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My wifey sent me some gorgeous gold brocade and fifty bells to make himself a baldric out of. The Boy is a fan of the Tres Riches styles so I'm planning a shoulder drape like the one in April or August's miniatures, and I'll see how far down his back I can make the bells go. I might have to find some other kind of findings to spread out the bells.<br />
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I really should get back to the sewing. How to Train Your Dragon is on, some how I find that to be a perfect accompaniment to sewing Norse clothing.<br />
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Lorienhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16771044572877731963noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7741106236844839986.post-34324558944526482722012-12-10T19:51:00.000-08:002012-12-10T19:51:30.064-08:00Just a bit of a distraction....<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWxmDg9Q7uj49XVeIz13mTvAYPIeER1qtxPsPVkW0jZRz9s2x2Y-kqVq0-0GaAK8sAFO-tT79nJ9Si7lQhlCDW5E4wszFoToXjfPs1xxlkI-N3WS0wc1YZJ5TpbG9yw3Fpy0t7QV3AHA6O/s1600/nierentasche_spaetmittelalter.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWxmDg9Q7uj49XVeIz13mTvAYPIeER1qtxPsPVkW0jZRz9s2x2Y-kqVq0-0GaAK8sAFO-tT79nJ9Si7lQhlCDW5E4wszFoToXjfPs1xxlkI-N3WS0wc1YZJ5TpbG9yw3Fpy0t7QV3AHA6O/s200/nierentasche_spaetmittelalter.jpg" width="199" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://merchantph.users37.interdns.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20&products_id=516&zenid=kdb0u7gdalfcu2qo3jf7n3mu63">The style Himself likes</a></td></tr>
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The Boy is rather bored lately, what with being unemployed and being at home all the time. While this has manifested in tasty tasty noms for dinner, it also means we've been looking for projects for himself to work on. When visiting the Tandy Leather here in town to look for materials for himself to make a kidney pouch, I found some GORGEOUS red leather that had to come home with me to make Roman shoes.<br />
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The trouble is, I don't know exactly what style it is that I want to make. I've never made shoes before, so I want something relatively easy to create for my first endeavor. I've been collecting images for a while, and I thought I'd put them up here to see if anyone had an opinion on which I should make.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYQIQ16wl4TbmTVfLuegeVxoLsTK8u5YIXBpfgXxIVjlklRAtfaVA4iTuOW-EpTAcXzUre23xdUdGuC69LUtDX4r7PBK1ynhkVyE2tVmzbPGf24TKx8wNCs_YJSl9LU90C1_fKqyi3b7l3/s1600/purple+Roman+shoes+from+Britannia+website.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYQIQ16wl4TbmTVfLuegeVxoLsTK8u5YIXBpfgXxIVjlklRAtfaVA4iTuOW-EpTAcXzUre23xdUdGuC69LUtDX4r7PBK1ynhkVyE2tVmzbPGf24TKx8wNCs_YJSl9LU90C1_fKqyi3b7l3/s200/purple+Roman+shoes+from+Britannia+website.gif" width="156" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.durolitum.co.uk/articles/footwear.html">5th century womens shoes found in Egypt</a></td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1Vsk4NsqjYHVmgFn0aMZi_2js6Ed_KkUw7hi6FmyNBMQo7cv5KB07wirqr-VV51XulhjpDXJh5P5HqELt8tdvq4arWlWKmZj_Cfn_vdX-6rr_hihCUNKyscZt2ddJq3RmnJuS02B9S-_P/s1600/Red+Shoes+from+Getty+by+Mary+Harrsch+on+Flicker.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1Vsk4NsqjYHVmgFn0aMZi_2js6Ed_KkUw7hi6FmyNBMQo7cv5KB07wirqr-VV51XulhjpDXJh5P5HqELt8tdvq4arWlWKmZj_Cfn_vdX-6rr_hihCUNKyscZt2ddJq3RmnJuS02B9S-_P/s200/Red+Shoes+from+Getty+by+Mary+Harrsch+on+Flicker.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/44124324682@N01/2293423427">Photo by Mary Harrsch,<br />located in the Getty</a></td></tr>
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I know I want Roman shoes, something closed toed and flat, but I can't decide between the simpler slipper style which I think would be easier for a first try, or the gorgeous cut work slippers that I've been lusting over for a while.<br />
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If I choose the simple slipper style I'd want to figure out how to do the gold embossing found on both of these examples.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3ED5mei5sooVm6xxyAdo6CE5DmI6__oJ1QfNOTPDmNR2GCF6IhYR2_XWVO3eZyRbvGg1zh_qVvZSzgRnKwi6WXGzWuSnNKClOl6tVpW_dM45HAM7th0QQAeeNin7Ois3GnTsboBMpqp1S/s1600/Roman+shoes+from+the+antonine+wall+website.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="135" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3ED5mei5sooVm6xxyAdo6CE5DmI6__oJ1QfNOTPDmNR2GCF6IhYR2_XWVO3eZyRbvGg1zh_qVvZSzgRnKwi6WXGzWuSnNKClOl6tVpW_dM45HAM7th0QQAeeNin7Ois3GnTsboBMpqp1S/s200/Roman+shoes+from+the+antonine+wall+website.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.antoninewall.org/resources.php?sec=education#">Shoes found at the Antonine Wall</a></td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMVpNUYCV_XSPT8iIEiO-sbolg9ptDNWAZxf4Q73R36Ej_Vm2vauLbUq_GCIGmQ2nm5K1u0knrARdx_pO_SWBuoBtypxnRU3iGhlK01w_z9vjpyNAHL7EzfydioZ74ZrBdhK36V9wJ3a9s/s1600/Roman+shoes+from+Britannia+website.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMVpNUYCV_XSPT8iIEiO-sbolg9ptDNWAZxf4Q73R36Ej_Vm2vauLbUq_GCIGmQ2nm5K1u0knrARdx_pO_SWBuoBtypxnRU3iGhlK01w_z9vjpyNAHL7EzfydioZ74ZrBdhK36V9wJ3a9s/s200/Roman+shoes+from+Britannia+website.gif" width="169" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.durolitum.co.uk/articles/footwear.html">The Low Ham Boot</a></td></tr>
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I'm also considering doing a simple slipper style for the first pair, but doing a bit of a cut work pattern on them like the pair on the left without the ties to lace it closed. I like the patterns and texture created by the cut work.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkIdd9sJkxSaVrzA-jVzCgVQF-k0q9jtw1YlvgmAlCDn4JuG_AAPG2dRydcxKAz3q4SrVHLhbcKV0EWSrw5WmWbfOaB2Yj16sGFQT1vYvRs9eQHBH6Wumyuim0vQVisbna8wCuCE-W9Yfy/s1600/Shoe+Pattern.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="149" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkIdd9sJkxSaVrzA-jVzCgVQF-k0q9jtw1YlvgmAlCDn4JuG_AAPG2dRydcxKAz3q4SrVHLhbcKV0EWSrw5WmWbfOaB2Yj16sGFQT1vYvRs9eQHBH6Wumyuim0vQVisbna8wCuCE-W9Yfy/s200/Shoe+Pattern.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://thekerrminator.wordpress.com/2012/02/19/leather-sandal-patterns/">Sara Kerr's pattern mockup</a></td></tr>
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I've found several tutorials and descriptions on how to make turn shoes, and some ideas on how to pattern shoes with a duct tape "cast" of your foot. I'm working on getting more research together, and looking for opinions on what style to do before starting, but I do want to get started sometime in the next week and a half. I'm daydreaming about entering a Roman outfit in the 12th night costuming competition.<br />
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I'm thinking about heading up to the Pendleton outlet before Jule next weekend to see if I can find some wool gauze to make "winter Romans" Since most of my Roman gear was made in Texas, it's mostly made of cotton or a linen/cotton blend. I'd like to make an outfit for that competition, but it's about a month away and I haven't made any of what I would like to enter. On the positive side, it's Roman, so it's not <i>that</i> hard to make quickly. But the wool would be more historically accurate, and it would be nice to have something that was more correct than what I'm wearing now, and it would be great to have something to wear in cooler weather that was my persona.<br />
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Lorienhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16771044572877731963noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7741106236844839986.post-27504599076120680812012-12-06T01:27:00.000-08:002012-12-06T01:27:22.723-08:00A couple new projects in the works...and just about a week to finish them. On the 15th, I'm headed up to Beaverton, (just outside of Portland) because a friend invited me up to dance, and I just happen to have that day off work.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK40outQQ9KJWW1MLE1_lKe0PZFumsiHIa6D1d75wGn6MiFuwcplu4pxhmbqetTv6R_GiMuj3JP-8kr4j_YkxwsyZJB1K-Fj5susGSeIwnnxo_RKhMjC2ahrHs0eNDXRs7SbFuxtiUsO2M/s1600/3267720.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK40outQQ9KJWW1MLE1_lKe0PZFumsiHIa6D1d75wGn6MiFuwcplu4pxhmbqetTv6R_GiMuj3JP-8kr4j_YkxwsyZJB1K-Fj5susGSeIwnnxo_RKhMjC2ahrHs0eNDXRs7SbFuxtiUsO2M/s1600/3267720.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://sophie-stitches.weebly.com/italy-florentine-gown-1500-25.html">Jen Thompson's gorgeous dress</a></td></tr>
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I'm making new sleeves to go with my Florentine from three years ago. As with the vast majority of people who have made this dress, I was inspired by Jen Thompson of Festive Attyre, whose information is currently in transition from one incarnation of her site to a new one. The photos that aren't of me are from the website <a href="http://sophie-stitches.weebly.com/">Sophie Stitches</a> that has a collection of images for her research.<br />
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I did the dress out of Jo-ann cotton velveteen, and it's pretty enough that I'm still happy with the results. I made the corded corset, and the giant puffy sleeves, and the striped turban, just like Jen's. But I've had two yards of the velveteen floating around in my stash, and those matching sleeves with the beaded tassels have been drifting around in my head for years. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfb3Md-YgZg5uKuW7wHAFY5kmqUBRaAc1CIS_ANvASDTRJBpB7u57msgP75XcMcxMq80jHLdk0jF-xw4fkfvSVrwC4xQBxXhSnwgYOPC4IBu8F4iU0kznsmfWW0MqVsxsg-vmiVMPHnkQd/s1600/7714066.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfb3Md-YgZg5uKuW7wHAFY5kmqUBRaAc1CIS_ANvASDTRJBpB7u57msgP75XcMcxMq80jHLdk0jF-xw4fkfvSVrwC4xQBxXhSnwgYOPC4IBu8F4iU0kznsmfWW0MqVsxsg-vmiVMPHnkQd/s200/7714066.jpg" width="128" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #666666; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 11px;">The Preaching of Saint John<br /> the Baptist, 1520, Bacchiacca</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS3P4xhXkeJ8nZdTw567GY6ZmhiHnQ-Q2iU0oS91ts5Bqc42IptfyeglPcMLKVNGlgEl99N-gNnTJ0bCxAnVBhF0RmQrK48bPjzouiOv0moTvfrn4pRvpFbFy-polycjlLgRlUCiysOcaG/s1600/5241353.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS3P4xhXkeJ8nZdTw567GY6ZmhiHnQ-Q2iU0oS91ts5Bqc42IptfyeglPcMLKVNGlgEl99N-gNnTJ0bCxAnVBhF0RmQrK48bPjzouiOv0moTvfrn4pRvpFbFy-polycjlLgRlUCiysOcaG/s200/5241353.jpg" width="152" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #666666; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 11px;">Portrait of the Artist's Wife, </span><br style="color: #666666; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 11px;" /><span style="color: #666666; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 11px;">1513-1514, Andrea del Sarto</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFEMryOWGgeBzYzdm6fElYQMt-GKyMzkGWuVJLBFL55v8Uq4v4nBbHlnIpSfZHhsORSS_1i9-D7NPJseOboWIGXGbDAzCWtaYjSkBiLv1lxKveqo2A2bbpSq0s6ta8_XIX4e-pTdMPO8mm/s1600/1515+Florentine.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFEMryOWGgeBzYzdm6fElYQMt-GKyMzkGWuVJLBFL55v8Uq4v4nBbHlnIpSfZHhsORSS_1i9-D7NPJseOboWIGXGbDAzCWtaYjSkBiLv1lxKveqo2A2bbpSq0s6ta8_XIX4e-pTdMPO8mm/s320/1515+Florentine.jpg" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me, photo by hubby for my portfolio</td></tr>
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So, I'm making the sleeves to wear next weekend. I'm down to just hand sewing, but that's flat felling internal seams, tacking down the chocolate silk trim, making the beaded tassels (still have to figure out what I'm going to do for the tassels, shredding the silk fabric isn't working well...), tacking down the bias facing on the sleeve heads and adding lacing rings. I didn't line the sleeves since I didn't have anything I thought would look good as a lining, and I didn't really want to spend any money on these sleeves.</div>
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However, the sleeves are on the back burner as far as sewing goes right now. I'm working on a gift for a friend's birthday, which is also the 15th. I'm working on a semi secret gift, I'll try to get pictures of the finished project to post, but right now I'm working on the embroidery that's a cross between between the <a href="http://heatherrosejones.com/mammen/index.html">Mammen embroideries</a> and her coat of arms. It'll be pretty simple, dark blue silk outlines in back/stem stitch on white linen. I'm hoping to finish it soon.</div>
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The other project that I'm working on is an exciting development for my whole house. I was graciously gifted with a copy of <a href="http://sallypointer.com/">Sally Pointer's</a> book on cosmetics, <a href="http://www.amazon.com/The-Artifice-Beauty-Practical-Cosmetics/dp/0750938870">The Artifice of Beauty</a>, for a wedding present. I've been interested in historical cosmetics, specifically Roman cosmetics, due to my interest in the duties of an ornatrix. Sally Pointer's one of the few people that I've come across so far with information on Roman cosmetics.</div>
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For the Jule event on the 15th they're having a largess competition, and my super sekrit entry will be a batch of her Alkanet Lip Paint. It's interesting, right now I've got a jar of chopped alkanet root soaking in sweet almond oil to draw out the color, and The Boy has been playing with a variety of methods for creating a tincture of myrrh. Either Thursday or Friday this week I'll be blending the alkanet oil with some beeswax and a little myrrh tincture and then putting them in little jars. It's probably old hat for other herbalists, but I'm excited to be branching out into new realms for myself.</div>
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That's what I'm up to right now, I'm hoping for new pictures soon. Here's hoping...</div>
Lorienhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16771044572877731963noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7741106236844839986.post-56685405204080133142012-11-04T00:41:00.000-07:002012-11-04T00:42:55.576-07:00Realized I never posted pics of my Housebook dress....<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2ywf4LrwA85OHoGLHm10ofx3zNjoQUFFcEqMOansvyg6wvRNqfZ5o36zNDXSGpK1nNYm9hdzxkV7283zEd4U8fQpQsUhalFjlZtpB8rzEQpeeslFX7809mj-ldXhAPxaeMU_WEbWs42EQ/s1600/housebook+goofy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2ywf4LrwA85OHoGLHm10ofx3zNjoQUFFcEqMOansvyg6wvRNqfZ5o36zNDXSGpK1nNYm9hdzxkV7283zEd4U8fQpQsUhalFjlZtpB8rzEQpeeslFX7809mj-ldXhAPxaeMU_WEbWs42EQ/s320/housebook+goofy.jpg" width="240" /></a>Even though the dress was made nearly a year ago... Oops?<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkdTQokj5TUoWp5xYrJHbtTYxK2vVFp0c0piZRS88CtCHkJV_VCscYNBJWXVGMG3T59mVImW9cjL5VGfUmUWe_3NnDR40ZBz2qerZQxpZQwASykXZ7ESnFoLhqvSAS2CEjCjT_cbSSA-Gi/s1600/Housebook+dance+derp.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkdTQokj5TUoWp5xYrJHbtTYxK2vVFp0c0piZRS88CtCHkJV_VCscYNBJWXVGMG3T59mVImW9cjL5VGfUmUWe_3NnDR40ZBz2qerZQxpZQwASykXZ7ESnFoLhqvSAS2CEjCjT_cbSSA-Gi/s320/Housebook+dance+derp.jpg" width="240" /></a>Outdoor photos are from the first wearing at Stargate Yule down in Houston; the indoor photos are from Midwinter's Feast in Adiantum (Eugene). Those last photos of the back of the dress are me being made the Barony's A&S Champion. It's hard to see in the photos just how long the train is, but as I've got the dress kilted up in most of them to walk, you can see where the extra six inches past my feet is all hiked up.<br />
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I'm still not stuck on the neckline, and have tweaked it some, but need to do more with it. If we're still in the area in January, maybe I'll tweak it some more for An Tir's 12th night.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYdojNBOcXA_5mrGEx_3OoJVz__00tH6_Wdze5uZui2Ac-dT0bW2IoWsrtvzCnjBApllrzSR9y6pi8a0jHAOmUVd629yNiKJV1h-0MHMFofAQWXEmM4jyii4pqB0bhPRyiCjXfUOLhGp6-/s1600/housebook+dance.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYdojNBOcXA_5mrGEx_3OoJVz__00tH6_Wdze5uZui2Ac-dT0bW2IoWsrtvzCnjBApllrzSR9y6pi8a0jHAOmUVd629yNiKJV1h-0MHMFofAQWXEmM4jyii4pqB0bhPRyiCjXfUOLhGp6-/s320/housebook+dance.jpg" width="240" /></a><br />
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Also: Awesome Red Hat!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5JwlvXzzZCvJP4SHfOIv-mzJ8GYTiOqnGzYYV4RviohkWpsGRxTBeYAy-HUr81GNS6NmZFw1_K422gF5rgBLo3MrqYdJJGUdxEsFHwFjYK0wRpSnWDwXrn2HF8kwHVcUuRjKiycswV9Ht/s1600/Housebook+back+kneel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5JwlvXzzZCvJP4SHfOIv-mzJ8GYTiOqnGzYYV4RviohkWpsGRxTBeYAy-HUr81GNS6NmZFw1_K422gF5rgBLo3MrqYdJJGUdxEsFHwFjYK0wRpSnWDwXrn2HF8kwHVcUuRjKiycswV9Ht/s320/Housebook+back+kneel.jpg" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9RzWiO2Y9RV5_W1Vvf9P_dbv-FlmFCzryvAZTL3oJ-IY_717bhYs-7JUBWafd-oILm12W-Mu5FVWjMmIt_Mb1vfpOhE8wZ6MGWOqWTknGYSaWsNOVZ-cIMK6TMnvK3mgGtMJbLceaujLo/s1600/Housebook+back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9RzWiO2Y9RV5_W1Vvf9P_dbv-FlmFCzryvAZTL3oJ-IY_717bhYs-7JUBWafd-oILm12W-Mu5FVWjMmIt_Mb1vfpOhE8wZ6MGWOqWTknGYSaWsNOVZ-cIMK6TMnvK3mgGtMJbLceaujLo/s320/Housebook+back.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
Lorienhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16771044572877731963noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7741106236844839986.post-24777931179890264722012-08-26T21:55:00.000-07:002012-08-26T21:55:59.540-07:00Thoughts on my teaching...So this weekend I taught a dance class at the Ithra held in Terra Pomeria. Ithra is a highly organized, kingdom wide "college" that has funding and management set up to help groups put together classes based events. It has aspects both admirable and annoying, but this isn't really the time to go into it.<br />
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The class I taught was "Easy English Country Dance: Three Dance to get Your Feet Wet." I taught three of the easiest dances I know, all from Playford. I chose Rufty Tufty, Black Nag, and Gathering Peascods. These dances are relatively simple, all have similar structures. The handouts I put together included a brief set of definitions, some information about where the dances came from, and cheat sheets created by a Laurel in the East. Along with the handout, I gave out a CD with the music for the three dances on it. The Boy helped me teach, which was so helpful, not only because he compliments my teaching style, but we only had four students, and needed six people for the last two dances. The four students represented a wide range of interest and experience in dance, but they all worked hard to learn the dances, and performed them well. We went through the steps first, explaining what was common and what I would be likely to say when calling the parts of the dances. We then set up the first dance, walked through the steps, then ran through with music and minimal calling. Once they performed the dance without trouble, we went on to the second dance and treated it the same way. They also danced that one well without my needing to call the steps after a few runs through, and we danced the third dance. After running through the third dance we ran through all three dances as though they were a set at a ball. The students were awesome! They got the dances pretty easily, and seemed to be enjoying themselves.<br />
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Ithra has a student evaluation form so the class can let those running Ithra know if a teacher is any good. Since it wasn't a secure method, I got to sneak a peek and my students thought I was a good teacher, so that made me happy. However, one of the students asked me about something I hadn't considered, but when I told her I'd be happy to send the information her way, she told me she just wasn't that interested in the subject. I'm running into that quite a bit in the SCA, plenty of people enjoy dancing, they're just not interested in actually learning the dances. They're fine with a run through right before doing the dance, instead of actually knowing how to do it, and I'm not sure there's a way to change that. I have one or two people that really want to practice dances until they know them. But there aren't enough to change the local group.<br />
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Ah well. I'm excited to continue teaching, and I'll do my best to be upbeat and high energy whenever I'm dancing or teaching dance. I'm just feeling the frustration that my interests aren't shared by a majority of people.<br />
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The other subject I keep trying to teach about is hair styling. I haven't had much turnout for hair classes lately, but it's a topic that I'm passionate about. I realize that my specialty is Roman and therefore not everyone's interest, but I haven't taught a class on Roman hairstyles. I'm hoping to branch out into more specific hairstyles instead of generic medieval and renaissance styles, but without someone's impetus, I'm likely to look into it. I need to work on prepping more step by step tutorials for this blog, it's a way of getting info out without specific teaching events. I'm working on a step by step for my method of Italian Hairtaping. If anyone has any artwork or images they'd like help deciphering the hairstyles, shoot me a copy of the picture, I'd love to help!<br />
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I've also got an idea for a class taught in tandem with Miriam from <a href="http://geekyyarn.blogspot.com/">The Sinister Spinster</a>. She's known in the area for info about the Cap of Saint Brigit, and I thought it would be interesting to teach a class on Hairstyle and Headdresses. I'd work on hairstyles that form the base of some common styles, and she'd talk about the caps and veils used to create that style. I'm hoping that we'll get cross interest from each other's subject matter. I'm just not sure when we'll get to teach this, there's a bit of an upheaval going on in my mundane life.Lorienhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16771044572877731963noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7741106236844839986.post-12183462573061846302012-08-16T20:49:00.000-07:002012-08-16T20:49:31.996-07:00Sorry folks, haven't had much to say lately...Although I just found out Janet Stephens is planning more hair styling videos on YouTube, this time around with live models in period style clothing! Here's the <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kBq5Y4p0IIU&feature=plcp">video</a> of what she's planning for the future with exciting tibits about which styles she's going to show! There are some styles she's already done on mannequins and some styles she's discussed in her article and some styles that are "new" from her.<br />
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And she's planning to do the Livia style I did for Midwinters! I'm giddily excited for that video to come out, as I can already see some differences in her version from the way I interpreted it. I'm hoping that one comes out soon.<br />
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The <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Trp9S5AlmeQ&feature=plcp">Cleopatra</a> style she put up a month ago oddly disappoints me. I look at the images she shows to accompany the style and give the basis for her recreations and I see a vastly different style. She even comments near the end of the video that people will be confused that the style isn't more difficult. And I have to agree with hypothetical other viewers, I think the hair should be twisted sections like a melon hairstyle, similar to the technique used to create the Plautilla hairstyle (the <a href="http://petracasta.blogspot.com/2012/05/time-for-another-hairstyle-showcase.html">Hundred-Strand Braid style</a>). There is also more of a pouf to the hair along the forehead that she doesn't address at all, and an impression of a twist along the hairline near the ears. Stephens credits all this to naturally curly hair, and does use a model with natural curl to her hair to produce the style, but I think that if the texture present in the coin is accurate, the model's natural curl needed to be emphasized somehow. I need to do more research into oiling hair, I think that might be useful to create more defined curl instead of stretched-out, slightly frizzy curl.<br />
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As said before, I'm SO looking forward to new videos. I realized earlier during my nerdgasms that I'm lusting for her work more than I've ever lusted for any man. (Sorry honey) I think I might end up "reviewing" them as I notice they come out. I would love to have a conversation with her about why she chooses some things over others, I would so love to be her apprentice!Lorienhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16771044572877731963noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7741106236844839986.post-59898470940116760942012-06-12T18:38:00.000-07:002012-06-12T18:38:22.456-07:00Just a quick post...Found a relatively easy to understand and use website with good information about Roman clothing that I thought I'd pass along. <a href="https://sites.google.com/site/therepublicofancrosaireproject/home">https://sites.google.com/site/therepublicofancrosaireproject/home</a><br />
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It's an SCA related site, with a detailed list of various specific Roman garments, and some basic methods for making them. The stola method they have is for a banded stola, one I haven't created yet. (I'm not sure how attractive it will be if I can't find an extremely thin fabric.)<br />
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It's good for garb, and is a decent reference on type of garment, color and basic construction. Be aware that on the color reference chart that colors vary from monitor to monitor. They have some image slide shows to accompany the pages, and a very nice bibliography of resources, though there's no indication of what information comes from what source.<br />
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And of course, they have no information on hair styling! The most impressive part of Roman clothing (for women at least!)Lorienhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16771044572877731963noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7741106236844839986.post-29747940480548325552012-06-03T15:32:00.002-07:002012-06-03T15:32:17.242-07:00Gratifying Roman moment...I was at the neighboring barony's small local event yesterday, and was watching the activity in someone's class, when a lady came up to me and told me that I looked so graceful in my garb. It's amazing how wonderful a compliment from a complete stranger makes you feel. Especially when you are dressed in your persona, it's awesome to be rewarded with the feeling that you're dressed not only in a manner that flatters, but in an accurate way. One of the things I love about Roman statues is their grace, and I'm a little giddy that I've managed to embody that, however briefly.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYaBBqlMWvV-HFBz0RuD8BNBoF9Q6F1IVkBZtakVPoLZ4C5GoJ39qdZlQ_h0Ti3-HEj3oXrlSEtG6BHj9MssX8oWWv-96Kq6lq2RFfegp8Yi8yg62A5h6vUqbAQ_OsDKdqd0z6UWts1Bq1/s1600/Egils+Court2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="284" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYaBBqlMWvV-HFBz0RuD8BNBoF9Q6F1IVkBZtakVPoLZ4C5GoJ39qdZlQ_h0Ti3-HEj3oXrlSEtG6BHj9MssX8oWWv-96Kq6lq2RFfegp8Yi8yg62A5h6vUqbAQ_OsDKdqd0z6UWts1Bq1/s320/Egils+Court2.jpg" width="320" /></a>This photo isn't from this weekend, but it is of pretty much the same outfit. Egils was the final full court for our local Baron and Baroness, and the lovely Baroness Morrghan was giving personal tokens. The sweet lady she was gifting in the photo caused her to choke up, and I thought she could use a pat. Of course this is the best photo of my garb that day, (I look a little silly in the rest). I love how the pleats in the palla look right! I had had it pinned to my hair as a veil, but pulled the pins out to receive my token. Sorry for the fuzzy image, but the friend that posted it was at a bit of a distance, as evidenced by the head in the lower left corner.<br />
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Hopefully we'll know soon which couple will be stepping up in their place, as the step up event is in two weeks! There is just a teensy amount of tension in the houses of the couples. Now to go work on The Boy's tunic and toga. Hopefully I can find the cord for my camera to post pictures.Lorienhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16771044572877731963noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7741106236844839986.post-16576805984709171542012-05-19T13:41:00.000-07:002012-05-19T13:52:32.908-07:00Time for another hairstyle showcase...Warmer weathers bring out the early period in many a Scadian, and having a Roman persona means I'm pushing heavily for chitons and tunicas. Last year at An Tir/West War, I craftily managed to instigate a Roman day. Since Idonia was going to be up in Court on our Roman Day, I pushed her to have a fancy hairstyle. After all that meant her hair would be seen by probably a dozen sets of sitting royalty.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-LGp9QWCz53jEO92rO7IjHz585ftd27RJrjvDevkt0mXEtkbsGslTcO2PXEX2wmkWWNiHNJsh_6NiAYg3gs9YFQYU8RNXSbwVJ8yx84C762TrZO7_3UGJPH98rqdxC6rpsUCPC01inpSH/s1600/100+strand+braid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-LGp9QWCz53jEO92rO7IjHz585ftd27RJrjvDevkt0mXEtkbsGslTcO2PXEX2wmkWWNiHNJsh_6NiAYg3gs9YFQYU8RNXSbwVJ8yx84C762TrZO7_3UGJPH98rqdxC6rpsUCPC01inpSH/s200/100+strand+braid.jpg" width="137" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bstorage/4284302838/">Portrait of Plautilla</a>
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This is a hairstyle seen on Plautilla, unwanted wife of Emperor Caracalla, who married him in 202 AD. I first came across this bust, which is housed in the J. Paul Getty Museum, in Janet Stephens paper, <u>Ancient Roman hairdressing: on (hair)pins and needles</u>. She gives step by step instructions on how she recreates the style, and it's relatively simple.<br />
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Idonia's hair is about waist length, but this style can be done with hair that is slightly shorter, at least mid back length.<br />
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Stephens calls this style the 100-strand braid, due to the woven look of the finished style. It begins by parting the hair vertically from brow to nape, then sectioning a small portion along the center, french braiding that narrow section and finishing the braid to the tips. The portions of hair on either side of that narrow braid are parted into four vertical sections on either side of the narrow braid, for a total of eight sections. It is easiest to part the sections as you'll be using them, instead of all at once. Each section will be twisted instead of braided against the scalp, and once it reaches the nape, separate into a three strand braid. For symmetry's sake, I twisted strands toward center, so sections on her left were twisted to the right, and sections on the right were twisted left. Unfortunately, I don't have any photos of doing the scalp portions, maybe in the future.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEZaQzcsA6mtwTZoYb2VoJ31xX-qxdGu-vLcd69u22Z50UxNnYpRDF4mBCgG55xwrTFY5OtINkXm0mGQpzyuCokQqz_kBYGtrG7jsPmt72VpUvQVc6i2w5txqy9SPzA4VLLXjOIbffTZ6M/s1600/sewing+braids.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEZaQzcsA6mtwTZoYb2VoJ31xX-qxdGu-vLcd69u22Z50UxNnYpRDF4mBCgG55xwrTFY5OtINkXm0mGQpzyuCokQqz_kBYGtrG7jsPmt72VpUvQVc6i2w5txqy9SPzA4VLLXjOIbffTZ6M/s200/sewing+braids.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj18znohwkWqvncPjTGrHu93YCHJh5Seukj5acHhR21786TdZQNvZhIevPlTseO_dnwSt5jlf7cm_BWiD_Nw3JDfpRs6FxiICoZg13skEo6zcsXfmrxukbI57VMLJe_nDEVimyNYIrGUWrv/s1600/sewing+braids+together.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj18znohwkWqvncPjTGrHu93YCHJh5Seukj5acHhR21786TdZQNvZhIevPlTseO_dnwSt5jlf7cm_BWiD_Nw3JDfpRs6FxiICoZg13skEo6zcsXfmrxukbI57VMLJe_nDEVimyNYIrGUWrv/s200/sewing+braids+together.jpg" width="150" /></a>After all the sections are braided, the nine braids are sewn together to form a flat panel. I did this with a tapestry needle and cotton weaving thread, but historically it would be done with large bone needles and woolen thread. Once all the braids are sewn together the panel is folded up, the tips are tucked in, and the top of the panel is sewn to the top of the french braided section. The passes of the french braid prevent the panel from weighing down the hair on the scalp and sliding down, as they would have if the panel was sewn to a twisted section alone.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKF7OnS3lxp6R0UvN7uXyqaOa2XftvJ4X8LWm2NFizYazU3JT4S8uxb1ZbIJ-yt0mRz-XTxe8u4wAGwXXZIMPT7mELp93sNuuqqI-ToIv14bVD5d4ueVwueS6AOog9dpoDmVqFIGRQA_cG/s1600/finished+100+strand+braid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKF7OnS3lxp6R0UvN7uXyqaOa2XftvJ4X8LWm2NFizYazU3JT4S8uxb1ZbIJ-yt0mRz-XTxe8u4wAGwXXZIMPT7mELp93sNuuqqI-ToIv14bVD5d4ueVwueS6AOog9dpoDmVqFIGRQA_cG/s200/finished+100+strand+braid.jpg" width="148" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIYKEXLUzjMZHkGc4IDYdA9HCng8XeXOZ2LdkCvXLlhDbRQEJwCfcRcc5GtS9WyIa0NYFDLI7D7FO3IoTtU5MyNrrOEhDFdl0kpH9Ni46Uu92AnHsXbzL7Dr5GCYwzTu9ehWjZkpVd9iXy/s1600/finished+100+strand+side.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIYKEXLUzjMZHkGc4IDYdA9HCng8XeXOZ2LdkCvXLlhDbRQEJwCfcRcc5GtS9WyIa0NYFDLI7D7FO3IoTtU5MyNrrOEhDFdl0kpH9Ni46Uu92AnHsXbzL7Dr5GCYwzTu9ehWjZkpVd9iXy/s200/finished+100+strand+side.jpg" width="150" /></a>This style did impress the royals, and because it's sewn together instead of pinned, it's very comfortable to sleep on. Idonia was in fact stuck in the style until I could get to her the Tuesday after to unsew her.<br />
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Hopefully this is helpful to those that are seeking an interesting and unique hairstyle to complete their Roman garb. <br />
<br />Lorienhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16771044572877731963noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7741106236844839986.post-32829404034580843872012-05-11T16:36:00.001-07:002012-10-28T19:47:48.966-07:00I know I promised this months ago...<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">But here it finally is,</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">Achieving Livia's Look:</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: large;">Recreating an Ancient Roman Hairstyle</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">This Style in History:<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">Roman hairdressing has shown an amazing variety in styles. Tall halos of curls, elaborate braided confections, and simple matronly buns, Roman women wore the hair in a vast array of personal styles. One iconic style is that of Empress Livia.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">This bust of Empress Livia resides in the Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek (<i>fig 1-5)</i>. The museum has dated this particular piece of marble to 4 CE or later, and believes it to be a copy of an original made ca. 27-23 BCE.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">Livia’s style is deceptively simple. She wears her hair with a center section combed forward into a “nodus,” a feature she is known for, the rest pulled back from the face along the sides in loose rolls to meet in the back with a complex bun wrapped with braids. The method for securing such a style is unknown, but there are theories.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">I believe this bust to be a representation of a casual hairstyle Livia wore. This style is shown on many other busts, in a variety of materials, most depict Livia, but some show other women have copied her style.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">Being an empress, Livia was the model for a lot of sculpture. Though Romans tended toward an eternally young depiction of people (statues made of Livia when she was 60 look much the same as when she was 20) there is certain realism to them (Bartman 19). There are examples of Livia shown as an allegory, most frequently as the goddess Ceres, with a floral crown and holding a cornucopia, (<i>fig. 6)</i> or in the style of <i>Pudicitia</i>, where she is covered modestly by a veil <i>(fig. 7)</i>. In some of these styles she wears a similar hairstyle to the featured one, and sometimes her hair is simply parted down the center and flows to either side in waves. In every allegorical image, she wears something on her hair, a veil, a diadem or a wreath of flowers. This leads me to believe that her uncovered style is not allegorical.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">Potential Historical Methods:<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">While no one knows for certain how these hairstyles were created, experimental archeology gives us some clues as to the methods necessary for securing them. There are three methods for fastening styles that are possible with Roman hairstyling, “gluing,” pinning, or sewing. Along with the arguments for and against each of these methods, this section will include descriptions of other tools a period hairstylist would use, and a brief discussion of who these historical hairstylists would be.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">Gluing:<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">A method for securing hairstyles that involves coating the hair, either part or all of the strand, with a substance that sticks the strands together. Beeswax and resins are capable of being documented to the first century CE; gel made from soaking or boiling flaxseed is theoretically possible, and water soluble gum arabic would have been available, though perhaps expensive since it would need to be imported.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">It is possible that the entirety of the style was held together with “glue,” but I find it extremely unlikely. This style, even carved in heavy marble, shows a lightness to the hair that wouldn’t have been possible if all the hair was coated in product. Also, seen easier in the plaster cast of the bust of Livia, <i>(Fig. 8)</i> fine, wispy hairs along the hairline are present. That a sculptor found them necessary to carve into the busts instead of eliminating them for ease of sculpting, seems to prove their existence. These wispy hairs wouldn’t be present if all the hair were slicked back with styling product.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">Romans who could afford it bathed daily, including women and children. Baths were deep enough to be fully immersed, suggesting that the hair was soaked along with the body. If so, a bath would destroy a hairstyle created entirely by water soluble adhesives. The frequency of bathing would suggest the need for a more easily removable fastener.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">Pinning:<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">Believed by some to be the most common way of securing a Roman hairstyle, this method uses pins to hold the hair at specific points. These pins would be straight, single pronged pins, like sewing pins or hair sticks, as U-pins were not created before the 18<sup>th</sup> century (Stephens 120). A profusion of decorative hair sticks exist in archeological record. Made of ivory, bone, wood, jet, gold and other materials, they often feature carved heads or elaborate miniature sculptures at the top (Stephens 112). They would be easy to insert into hairstyles, and be easy enough to remove prior to a daily bath.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">However, the lack of their presence in art makes it more unlikely that these hair “pins” were used to create these styles. Extremely few portrait busts show large hair sticks, and most of those only show one, insufficient to be the sole means of support (Stephens 117, 119) (Bartman 12). If the styles were constructed using smaller pins, it would require numerous smaller straight pins to secure the style. These small pins could possibly be hidden from sight, but I’ve found no report of a large number of small pins in grave finds.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">Sewing:<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">Sewing hair as a method of securing a style requires a large needle, and sufficient length of thread to stitch through elements of the style, to prevent portions of the style from coming loose. Thread was most likely wool, as it is the most common fiber in Roman clothing, and Juvenal mentions a slave working wool while the mistress’s hair was being styled (Stephens 124). By using a thread of similar color to a lady’s hair, the thread becomes almost invisible, and more closely resembles period artwork.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">The use of the Latin word <i>acus</i> causes some confusion amongst translators. It appears to most often be translated as pin when describing hair arranging, but when used in conjunction with sewing terms, it means sewing needle. Janet Stephens would argue that this word should be used for needle in both cases, specifically citing Sextus Pompeius Festus, whose <i>Glossaria Latina</i> has an entry on hairdressing and needles that states: <i>“ACUS dicitur, qua sarcinatrix vel etiam ornatrix utitur” </i>(that which the cloth-mender as well as the hairdresser uses is called a needle.) That the same type of tool was used for both sewing of cloth and sewing of hair explains the difference in needle sizes in Ancient finds. The size of needles believed to be used for hair sewing are larger than would be used for sewing cloth, commonly ranging from 10-15 cm, and being 0.5-1 cm in diameter, and have blunted ends. Roman needles this large are usually made from bone or ivory, though there have been finds of gold and glass (Stephens 113).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">In addition to finds of large needles, there is a frieze on a tomb that depicts objects connected women’s work, and a needle is depicted with a cosmetic spatula on the right side. The spindle for creating thread is placed at the far left, with a variety of other elements between them; a clear separation of the two subjects. There is also the “beauty case of <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Cumae</st1:place></st1:city>” that contains jewelry, a mirror, several cosmetics related items, and a complete set of hairdressing tools, a comb, bodkin, spindle and needle (Stephens 122-123).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">Ornatrices:<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">Roman hairstyles can be complex, and often require at least one other person to arrange the hair, if not several. Taking down a style is also complicated; if sewn, one must separate the wool thread from the lady’s hair, cutting only that thread. This requires the presence of an ornatrix. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">Many Roman ladies of wealth had a slave, or several, just for arranging their hair. This hairdressing slave is known as an ornatrix. Images of hairdressing performed by a servant are seen in tomb carvings (Bartman 4). There are several instances in Roman literature of orantrices, and they are frequently mentioned as the recipient of abuse from their mistresses for pulling hair or making a mistake while styling it. Juvenal’s <i>Satire 6</i> features two slaves actively working on their mistress’s hair, while a third who has retired from work due to age sits and spins thread while giving advice. Her skill is respected and she was once an expert of styling (Stephens 124).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">Other Tools:<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">Aside from the needle and thread, arranging the hair of a Roman lady would require a few other tools. A comb was necessary to detangle and smooth the hair, a hair bodkin for parting sections, a curling iron for later styles, and a mirror for the lady to view all angles of the style (Stephens 123).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">How I Did It:<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">Start with clean(ish), combed hair. This style works best with hair of near waist length or more. Begin the style by creating the center section, parting the hair from the back of the scalp to approximately the center of each eye. Comb this section forward, and secure the remaining side hair for the time being. This is easily done with a hair bodkin. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">As seen in the images of the Lady from Cerveteri, in the Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek, the center section is parted in a downward point near the front of the hair. (<i>Fig 9)</i> I believe this part indicates a place where the hair is bound together, creating a secure spot to anchor later steps of the style to. Bind off the section of hair, either with a needle and thread, or, if using modern elements, with a small hair elastic. Pull the bound section and the rest of the center section forward and bind them together at nose length. Braid this section below the binding down to the tips. The tips can be bound with thread, dipped in water to temporarily stick them together (Stephens 123), or modernly, wipe gel on them to bind them together. Sew the two bindings together to create a loop at the center forehead (called a nodus), and stitch the braid down the center section. Then release the rest of the hair.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">Part the rest of the hair down the center below the wedge. Use large sections to create French twists down both sides of the head. Some busts show twists all the way to the bun in the back; some only use part of the hair on the side, as clearly seen on the Bust of Livia in the British Museum. (<i>Fig. 10)</i> Once these twists rolled to the nape of the neck, bind them into a pony tail. Separate out about a third of the hair from each twist, and create a braid on either side of the head. These two braids will wrap around the finished bun.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">Take the remaining unbraided section of hair and pull the tail through the gap made by the center section of the hair, leaving a loop of hair. Stick a hair bodkin through this loop to prevent it from being pulled through the gap. Smooth out the tail below the loop. Pull that tail back through the gap, creating a second loop below the first, inserting another bodkin to keep the loop from pulling through. The two braids should emerge from either side of this loop. What hair remains of the unbraided tail can be wet with water and wrapped around the bun. Secure this bun with large stitches through it. Wrap the braids around the bun, securing the braids with stitches. The style is complete.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">A few notes on constructing this style.<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">When creating the central section, start from further back on the head than you expect. Most of the images show that the point of the central section is covered by the bun. While the most frequent location for this large bun is the nape of the neck, the Late Republican Woman in the NY Met shows a very high bun, perched at the back of her head. <i>(Fig. 11)</i> Her bun is also smaller than most of the examples, and rounder rather than the flatter versions that are more common.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">There are a few other alternatives within the style that are exhibited by various busts. The bust of Livia in the Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek doesn’t feature a central braid, but smooth hair. <i>(Fig. 1)</i> Either all the hair is rolled into the nodus, or the tail of hair is some how smoothed down the central section of hair. Also there is an interesting example of the nodus itself being braided in a herringbone style. <i>(Fig. 12)</i> Most of busts of Livia herself feature a nodus that is full and circular, though when her nodus is paired with a central braid, it is often more horizontal, as can be seen in the bust of Livia Drusilla that resides in The Archaeological Museum in Selçuk, <i>(Fig. 13)</i> or in the bust of Livia from the Crypta Balbi section of the National Museum of Rome, <i>(Fig. 14)</i> where the nodus has broken off, but the shape can be determined by the remaining outline.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">The less rounded nodus is also a common feature for women copying the Empress’ look. Images of the Late Republican Woman, <i>(Fig. 11)</i> present a fairly flat nodus, with the top layer clearly shown. The Roman Lady from Cerveteri, <i>(Fig. 9)</i>, displays a nodus with barely any height, all the hair is drawn together on the top with smooth curves.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">A third variation can be found with the side rolls. In a few examples the side rolls are smooth, but still have volume, instead of sectioned, as in the Late Republican Woman’s hairstyle. <i>(Fig 11)</i> Visible on the bust of Livia carved from basalt, in the Louvre, <i>(Fig. 15)</i> are large waves that undulate down the hairline on either side of the head. The carving indicates that the hair isn’t rolled, but loose pulled toward the back to maintain the waves.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">To Wrap it Up:<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">This elegant style is hardly simple, but with the help of a handmaid, friend or servant, who is a capable hairdresser, and a few simple tools, the nodus style of Empress Livia can be achieved. There are a variety of small changes that can be made to personalize the style, and it is a beautiful way to finish an early Roman outfit.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRCSym7brXrOMf9i9K82QjuW5zokDeeBCbzzSfNLV_RYn84jB_EknkTi6dgoB6yyaezwnea4NWZJzZLPRdWBtJwOokP5qN7G-nXxVy3lz9SEL1swXhmYIv-cBinoCUDHIYKrbdkLH5Wk7x/s1600/Livia+Copenhagen+1444.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRCSym7brXrOMf9i9K82QjuW5zokDeeBCbzzSfNLV_RYn84jB_EknkTi6dgoB6yyaezwnea4NWZJzZLPRdWBtJwOokP5qN7G-nXxVy3lz9SEL1swXhmYIv-cBinoCUDHIYKrbdkLH5Wk7x/s320/Livia+Copenhagen+1444.jpg" width="240" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="background-color: white;">Fig. 1</i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiVXm639qdRP3WwtZP_XxUaHPS5V4Na6uYhOx8kTPH2mLmD3YRjCPwydoq8tcnR6Pa3CerkTdb4QOoa5QEjclvabUy96mEIua3kr0UFUhXenFgKcvqce2dRv64xNgmC5CAFq_zSnfXeXeO/s1600/Livia+3.4+Copenhagen+1444.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiVXm639qdRP3WwtZP_XxUaHPS5V4Na6uYhOx8kTPH2mLmD3YRjCPwydoq8tcnR6Pa3CerkTdb4QOoa5QEjclvabUy96mEIua3kr0UFUhXenFgKcvqce2dRv64xNgmC5CAFq_zSnfXeXeO/s200/Livia+3.4+Copenhagen+1444.jpg" width="140" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="background-color: white;">Fig. 2</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1A8uHaR_a21Cw_FLaxkSjprp8eHQhoVBzQZJFd2ia4qv9tZ5EUuXEOw9tP6Pvpzvz5DHsF6DgWj4nvPijFHRBygGo5Qf9xy8Ird31nIjfLoCWGgKyz4FXe6wCg_L58R2qdYx0oPzGvT4X/s1600/Livia+Left+Copenhagen+1444.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1A8uHaR_a21Cw_FLaxkSjprp8eHQhoVBzQZJFd2ia4qv9tZ5EUuXEOw9tP6Pvpzvz5DHsF6DgWj4nvPijFHRBygGo5Qf9xy8Ird31nIjfLoCWGgKyz4FXe6wCg_L58R2qdYx0oPzGvT4X/s200/Livia+Left+Copenhagen+1444.jpg" width="143" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="background-color: white;">Fig. 3</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbaTaaP03cYCt97tMEQErwUplzuUFyF6IFwVxR2lNx3gHEQYMtnwOuzoMI1t9kIL7wvaGvHv4qylalJssx7FkFvee_XVRYhXzBskQQtWEMLCkHWXzHCckm4kJZS5cBxAF4Xl4aS8PeWsOp/s1600/Livia+Right+Copenhagen+1444.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbaTaaP03cYCt97tMEQErwUplzuUFyF6IFwVxR2lNx3gHEQYMtnwOuzoMI1t9kIL7wvaGvHv4qylalJssx7FkFvee_XVRYhXzBskQQtWEMLCkHWXzHCckm4kJZS5cBxAF4Xl4aS8PeWsOp/s200/Livia+Right+Copenhagen+1444.jpg" width="140" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="background-color: white;">Fig. 5</i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTgavib8A3X6RmTmXPZppn7CRqcW8G8xw9tEgLycawo6BoFk4h-p9fHIG4Jh_Et40LU8QRox2AJO_kaI3RsRrmnv4iRS8uTtfWxnXtgiFz_-EvPTlEsFdSOuMhwBzapw71c_sN-XEIOOcP/s1600/Livia+Back+Copenhagen+1444.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTgavib8A3X6RmTmXPZppn7CRqcW8G8xw9tEgLycawo6BoFk4h-p9fHIG4Jh_Et40LU8QRox2AJO_kaI3RsRrmnv4iRS8uTtfWxnXtgiFz_-EvPTlEsFdSOuMhwBzapw71c_sN-XEIOOcP/s200/Livia+Back+Copenhagen+1444.jpg" width="140" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="background-color: white;">Fig. 4</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyW1YcxYn_AVzbeMnaCmvLFkqiht-hVNPm3rDAZz2qVQ10jMdKIag57KmC85sHM6l2nSBAuHV6stNdhyeoxJWlF2o4uxhFkTYHUO6m2WFtv79pRE8ODT4IzDxt8sSd7N9a8eHORFAjoGu2/s320/Livia+%2528Pudicita%2529+Villa+of+the+Mysteries.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="227" /></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="background-color: white;">Fig. 7</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpgwYvDHcqLN5PhQLe9ri5PjTXSULKbF3fAE-vEk71Jbv8jC8pxqJ519k71iFfzQa1c7p9Mm4Ww8ItPuQbnQPpXhpLoviozvG_D1mj6cqa9hVqZFnig_tVG93X4MVcHXQrP60szYbdI9nZ/s320/Livia+as+Ceres%252C+Louvre.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="229" /></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="background-color: white;">Fig. 6</i></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpgwYvDHcqLN5PhQLe9ri5PjTXSULKbF3fAE-vEk71Jbv8jC8pxqJ519k71iFfzQa1c7p9Mm4Ww8ItPuQbnQPpXhpLoviozvG_D1mj6cqa9hVqZFnig_tVG93X4MVcHXQrP60szYbdI9nZ/s1600/Livia+as+Ceres%252C+Louvre.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="background-color: white; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"></span></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNb2iSz-t6p8oDyVbP3WShFdFLFqZ6RVcsHpX81zuoEYMqyrvulvZmv1eurBZV3ztpl4uCnauLlyRNDw2nKRd8-Qhzsf1XpUQeKG2Mja2sba3cDwUrXg-emO0I0auMwnSwuce8Db8T8v6s/s320/Plaster+Cast+of+Ny+Carlsburg+Glyptotek.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="231" /></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="background-color: white;">Fig. 8</i></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNb2iSz-t6p8oDyVbP3WShFdFLFqZ6RVcsHpX81zuoEYMqyrvulvZmv1eurBZV3ztpl4uCnauLlyRNDw2nKRd8-Qhzsf1XpUQeKG2Mja2sba3cDwUrXg-emO0I0auMwnSwuce8Db8T8v6s/s1600/Plaster+Cast+of+Ny+Carlsburg+Glyptotek.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="background-color: white; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"></span></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-FG23Hsafstvakr_6-Y0sd6iEYcT99eiappN9vkIURgsqY05D_UyOoowLIKRspOy1y4ydg-VfH0RmEFQdDrzOWVNjG8c_MbFgCBZFCj05UqrT4Ll435BO765ecEX6Nrz4MTY6rzISAGqN/s1600/Livia+Back+British+Museum.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="background-color: white; clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-FG23Hsafstvakr_6-Y0sd6iEYcT99eiappN9vkIURgsqY05D_UyOoowLIKRspOy1y4ydg-VfH0RmEFQdDrzOWVNjG8c_MbFgCBZFCj05UqrT4Ll435BO765ecEX6Nrz4MTY6rzISAGqN/s320/Livia+Back+British+Museum.jpg" width="244" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="background-color: white;">Fig. 10</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXx2XaWAdQmP4snltmyW6lu5RGeTdjRuRrfVFfT2p34uEildYJp8xYFd12R0GOSedBALDxMXCVBIO1nnaw8tE0B1dZF6Rgs6tWxrYN7Rp5BHWEs93hEYKEIvrSWhlB7c59P9hdlmk2iM6h/s320/Roman+Lady+from+Cerveteri.jpg" style="cursor: move; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="223" /></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="background-color: white;">Fig. 9</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWoMVOCcNHg4Xj-pxCyNX5n0-mJayaPBHm4N1RMU7UOUJPZ_CmD5KmqEzMNrI9lHY0JFzOWlSZtLedlDAuKrDFCfqzNaHRqT2ofKS8P9jLGVC1S5csgnFrEkeHr7_URt39Ghq-jMzcJeaB/s1600/Late+Republican+Woman+NY+Met.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="background-color: white; clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWoMVOCcNHg4Xj-pxCyNX5n0-mJayaPBHm4N1RMU7UOUJPZ_CmD5KmqEzMNrI9lHY0JFzOWlSZtLedlDAuKrDFCfqzNaHRqT2ofKS8P9jLGVC1S5csgnFrEkeHr7_URt39Ghq-jMzcJeaB/s200/Late+Republican+Woman+NY+Met.jpg" width="153" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="background-color: white;">Fig. 11</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcV6WM1wWWroNqF439Aa4AiSS6r1bIr5r1WX7KV-dMCpHPjly4v7k7De2Opk8036zJZdQRge-1VIfcpSAIPXXOYZVdOdWcbX6weEb9FHL_be4JU6RwJJ3ZdMjGowa9QYHjWP7vO_7dWo9m/s1600/Livia+Tunisia.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="background-color: white; clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcV6WM1wWWroNqF439Aa4AiSS6r1bIr5r1WX7KV-dMCpHPjly4v7k7De2Opk8036zJZdQRge-1VIfcpSAIPXXOYZVdOdWcbX6weEb9FHL_be4JU6RwJJ3ZdMjGowa9QYHjWP7vO_7dWo9m/s200/Livia+Tunisia.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="background-color: white;">Fig. 12</i></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWoMVOCcNHg4Xj-pxCyNX5n0-mJayaPBHm4N1RMU7UOUJPZ_CmD5KmqEzMNrI9lHY0JFzOWlSZtLedlDAuKrDFCfqzNaHRqT2ofKS8P9jLGVC1S5csgnFrEkeHr7_URt39Ghq-jMzcJeaB/s1600/Late+Republican+Woman+NY+Met.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="background-color: white; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"></span></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIEzyc0S9VwfUKze6Cw6jHWqsgIjVAW_uMoeKZaWO5fG-t0n9HGBsq0yJs8uS618FcChF7cK4OTS05vx0ZbpSSnj0naOh8DZ9tgMdqVMExGPNRfP3e-bL8vzP_zGePzhhonzggPuhr6FKC/s1600/Livia+Drusilla+Selcuk%252C+Ephesus+Museum%252C+Christoph+Houbrects.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="background-color: white; clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIEzyc0S9VwfUKze6Cw6jHWqsgIjVAW_uMoeKZaWO5fG-t0n9HGBsq0yJs8uS618FcChF7cK4OTS05vx0ZbpSSnj0naOh8DZ9tgMdqVMExGPNRfP3e-bL8vzP_zGePzhhonzggPuhr6FKC/s200/Livia+Drusilla+Selcuk%252C+Ephesus+Museum%252C+Christoph+Houbrects.jpg" width="141" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="background-color: white;">Fig. 13</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjExetvnF0hNLG8dd5SWLUKWmXNlP7DT_f88PtGjwmd88QoILMSXLieMz6H8pKoBflcSBTIdlFnDNWxz3M8XYioXoLcx3-kfF4-lDfy8nmti5Nk8QXp3949EiUPM1MrGySx6KZFwrNEkEyE/s1600/Livia+Side+Museo+Crypta+Balbi%252C+Rome+Rien+Bongers.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="background-color: white; clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjExetvnF0hNLG8dd5SWLUKWmXNlP7DT_f88PtGjwmd88QoILMSXLieMz6H8pKoBflcSBTIdlFnDNWxz3M8XYioXoLcx3-kfF4-lDfy8nmti5Nk8QXp3949EiUPM1MrGySx6KZFwrNEkEyE/s200/Livia+Side+Museo+Crypta+Balbi%252C+Rome+Rien+Bongers.jpg" width="133" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="background-color: white;">Fig. 14</i></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcV6WM1wWWroNqF439Aa4AiSS6r1bIr5r1WX7KV-dMCpHPjly4v7k7De2Opk8036zJZdQRge-1VIfcpSAIPXXOYZVdOdWcbX6weEb9FHL_be4JU6RwJJ3ZdMjGowa9QYHjWP7vO_7dWo9m/s1600/Livia+Tunisia.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="background-color: white; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"></span></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwNWyqG9WUyeT_w_njr5Lh_PH-p6dsGaWBwacaKXU5TjcnJih-095iOqRzkXVL8Mdxm4v_QK9evu6pZV_vMSLisuxMnQEJzIXQqIU5vPrdqaYNxeFvqSsRcMpqJOvZhFnJMePUqTBCpnzx/s1600/Livia+Basalt+Right.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="background-color: white; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwNWyqG9WUyeT_w_njr5Lh_PH-p6dsGaWBwacaKXU5TjcnJih-095iOqRzkXVL8Mdxm4v_QK9evu6pZV_vMSLisuxMnQEJzIXQqIU5vPrdqaYNxeFvqSsRcMpqJOvZhFnJMePUqTBCpnzx/s320/Livia+Basalt+Right.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="background-color: white;">Fig. 15</i></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">Bibliography<i><o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">Bartman, Elizabeth. "Hair and the Artifice of Roman Female Adornment." <i>American Journal of Archaeology</i>. 105.1 (2001): 1-25. Print.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">Basalt Livia, <i>(fig. 15)</i> Louvre, Photo by Joe Geranio. http://www.flickr.com/photos/julio-claudians/5826158704/ Jun 12, 2011. Dec 28, 2011<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">Bust of Livia, <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Copenhagen</st1:city></st1:place> 1444 (<i>fig. 1-5)</i>. Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek. Photos by Roger Ulrich. http://www.flickr.com/photos/roger_ulrich/5401662363/ Jan 30, 2011. Dec 28, 2011.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">Bust of Livia, <i>(fig. 10).</i> <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placename w:st="on">British</st1:placename> <st1:placetype w:st="on">Museum</st1:placetype></st1:place>, Photo by Roger Ulrich. http://www.flickr.com/photos/roger_ulrich/5083966797/ Oct 15, 2010. Dec 28, 2011.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">Late Republican Woman, <i>(fig. 11)</i> NY Met, Photo by Roger Ulrich. http://www.flickr.com/photos/roger_ulrich/4349761771/ Feb 11, 2010. Dec 28, 2011<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">Livia, <i>(fig. 14), </i>Museo Crypta Balbi, <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Rome</st1:city></st1:place>. Photo by Rien Bongers. http://www.flickr.com/photos/antiekpubliek/4069196309 Nov 2, 2009. Dec 28, 2011.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">Livia as Ceres, <i>(fig. 6)</i> Louvre, Photo by Joe Geranio. http://www.flickr.com/photos/julio-claudians/281634307/ Oct 28, 2006. Jan 11, 2012.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">Livia Drusilla, <i>(fig. 13)</i> <st1:placename w:st="on">Selçuk</st1:placename> <st1:placetype w:st="on">Museum</st1:placetype>, <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Ephesus</st1:place></st1:city> , Photo by Christoph Houbrects. http://www.flickr.com/photos/crisdefeu/3936828412/ Sep 20, 2009. Dec 28, 2011<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">Liva from the Villa of the Mysteries, <i>(fig. 7)</i> Photo by Joe Geranio. http://www.flickr.com/photos/julio-claudians/3534732349/ May 15, 2009. Jan 11, 2012.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">Livia <st1:country -region="-region" w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Tunisia</st1:place></st1:country>, <i>(fig. 12).</i> museum unknown, Photo by Joe Geranio. http://www.flickr.com/photos/julio-claudians/2422218499/ Apr 18, 2008<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">Plaster Cast of Bust of Livia, <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Copenhagen</st1:place></st1:city> 1444 <i>(fig. 8)</i> Photo by William Storage. http://www.flickr.com/photos/bstorage/4045212257/ Oct 25, 2009. Dec 28, 2011<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">Roman Lady from Cerveteri, <i>(fig. 9)</i> Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek, Photo by Roger Ulrich. http://www.flickr.com/photos/roger_ulrich/5102631473/ Oct 21, 2010<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">Stephens, Janet. "Ancient Roman hairdressing: on (hair)pins and needles." <i>Journal of Roman Archeology</i>. 21. (2008): 111-126. Print.</span><span style="font-size: medium;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
Lorienhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16771044572877731963noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7741106236844839986.post-47478670362825559152012-05-07T00:43:00.002-07:002012-05-07T00:43:54.710-07:00The one and only image I've found that might indicate French Braiding is Period...So I haven't found much proof that augmentation braids are appropriate for medieval hairstyles. A vast majority of hairdressing is covered for the final image, usually with a variety of veils, but sometimes with hats; however, I have come across a singular image that appears to be a French braided style. The trouble is, I only have the one image, and the website I found it on doesn't give much information on the source. The webpage belongs to <a href="http://www.themcs.org/index.htm">The Medieval Combat Society</a>, a reenactor group in the UK that specializes in 13th and 14th century. They have a huge collection of images for <a href="http://www.themcs.org/costume/14th%20century%20Female%20Clothing.htm">Female Civilian Clothing</a>, composed of tomb effigies and grave brasses.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpVNjn8-qZH2i_vDiEOnhn1gMkbaBVfk-SOjauEwdsGf7tWjqhV7VL7QvaZ8rmWmEMvQ2LQZYPCKIVjbvbVvEJiGLX3q07b0-rhyzRKpWCxaG17dCLfaDinw33cp7PAzY43uXSGvCakbUA/s1600/Minster+Abbey+-+Virgin+Mary+and+St+Saxburgha+Elizabeth+de+Northwood+1335+copy+head+24.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpVNjn8-qZH2i_vDiEOnhn1gMkbaBVfk-SOjauEwdsGf7tWjqhV7VL7QvaZ8rmWmEMvQ2LQZYPCKIVjbvbVvEJiGLX3q07b0-rhyzRKpWCxaG17dCLfaDinw33cp7PAzY43uXSGvCakbUA/s320/Minster+Abbey+-+Virgin+Mary+and+St+Saxburgha+Elizabeth+de+Northwood+1335+copy+head+24.JPG" width="272" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">French Braids? </td></tr>
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The specific brass that appears to be French Braiding dates to 1335, depicts Elizabeth de Northwood, and should reside in Minster Abbey. There is one extremely confusing word in the extremely brief description, the word copy. This word causes me to question the actual date of the brass, but unfortunately it has gotten very late, and I've had a long day, so my Google-fu isn't what I would wish it to be.<br />
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Elizabeth's hair has some natural wave to it and is braided from the temples like many other hairstyles for this period, but the exciting part is the way the braids start off tiny at the top of her head and grow larger as they braid towards her ears. This seems to indicate that more hair is added to the strands as they pass over each other. The V-point within the braid is a bit of a conundrum, because it would normally indicate a french braid. (Duth or cornrows have an upward point instead of a downward.) However, gathering the hair in a normal French Braid doesn't result in the sharply defined edge of braid as in the image. <span style="text-align: center;">See the smooth sections in the below image, stolen from <a href="http://long-haircuts.com/long-hairstyles/">long-haircuts.com</a>, as </span><span style="text-align: center;">they join with the previous </span><span style="text-align: center;">strand, no clearly defined </span><span style="text-align: center;">edge of the braid.</span><br />
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There are some techniques for braiding that will cause the braid to flip over and give a clearly defined edge; it is created by only augmenting the braid from one side of the head. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://long-haircuts.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/french-braids-225x300.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="French Braids Hairstyle" border="0" height="200" src="http://long-haircuts.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/french-braids-225x300.jpg" title="http://long-haircuts.com/long-hairstyles/" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
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It is a baffling image for me, and the source is just as confusing. What does it mean copy? Every time I come across the image online it is the same one, but there is no description of the image past what the Medieval Combat Society has. How are these braids accomplished? The loose hair between the braids and the face on either side creates a challenge to recreating the style if it is an augmentation braid, as the hair is left loose enough to maintain its wave, not impossible to do, but not the sturdiest of styles.<br />
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There is also a simpler explanation, that the braids are actually being drawn from the back of the head down by her ears and are tapering out at the top. A plain braid follows more accurately the myriad of other examples from the time period, but I'm still looking for the elusive proof of French Braiding in the Medieval Period.Lorienhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16771044572877731963noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7741106236844839986.post-20100680151136878152012-04-30T20:27:00.000-07:002012-04-30T20:42:35.167-07:00Having trouble writing up my classes...I've promised (and eventually sent in the info about) two classes on hair that I'll be teaching at <a href="http://adiantum.antir.sca.org/egils/">Egils</a>, but right now I'm having trouble figuring out what exactly to talk about in these classes. The first, boringly titled, "French Braiding For Beginners," is a hands on tutorial on how to do augmentation braids, (French, Dutch and Cornrows). It'll have a brief bit of explanation and demonstration before letting the students at each other's hair. I haven't figured out if there will be any kind of handout, as I don't really want to spend money.<br />
<br />
The second class is the one that's really holding me up. The Boy and I talked about it on the way back home from the event we attended on Saturday. I knew I wanted the class to be about authentic hairstyles, since French braiding hasn't been documented for most periods. Unfortunately, authentic hairstyles is a very broad subject, and one I'm not as well versed as I would like to be, since my specialty is Roman. The Boy suggested that I do a tutorial on hair sewing, but I was having a hard time envisioning the subject as a full class. I get rather short sighted on things that I do well, and often don't realize that it may not be obvious to everyone how to accomplish some of the things I do. So, talking through the class with Himself, we decided the class should have a brief discussion of the historical plausibility of sewing hairstyles together, followed by a basic tutorial in a hairstyle or two. The Boy suggested my Norse braid loops, since they're simple, many ladies up her wear Norse, and, provided the student has long enough hair, can be accomplished on their own hair.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicX6kI7Ekm_4ruX8lSfX2QwKI-p2xjplOV4MNusWkjhmo0o3seo38PzUudsDhPhCEKjowNEB2nNDVpOPnuvLWMsZutItMHLXJgNgiNLQVa4O9weFmIpfXtlEHlwugw1CJiyfNNTm47x0wa/s1600/Hair+Taping.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="176" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicX6kI7Ekm_4ruX8lSfX2QwKI-p2xjplOV4MNusWkjhmo0o3seo38PzUudsDhPhCEKjowNEB2nNDVpOPnuvLWMsZutItMHLXJgNgiNLQVa4O9weFmIpfXtlEHlwugw1CJiyfNNTm47x0wa/s200/Hair+Taping.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Odd how often my "attentive"<br />
photos seem "surly"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The other option I'm thinking about for a tutorial in hair sewing is hair taping. I've gotten pretty good at doing hair taping on myself, and fully believe this style was done by middle class women because it can be done to one's own hair with a minimum of effort. I also believe it to be the structural basis for some hat styles, especially late period styles. My introduction to hair taping was through <span style="text-align: -webkit-center;">Faoiltighearna's </span><a href="http://www.mfgraffix.com/hird/faoilt/hairtape.html">webpage</a> on taping, but I've developed a few theories of my own since then. The image below from her page of <a href="http://www.mfgraffix.com/hird/faoilt/examples.html">examples</a> shows a woman wearing a cap similar to the style worn throughout several countries and centuries.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.mfgraffix.com/hird/faoilt/ghirld2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="display: inline !important; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img alt="http://www.mfgraffix.com/hird/faoilt/examples.html" border="0" src="http://www.mfgraffix.com/hird/faoilt/ghirld2.JPG" title="" /></a></div>
<br />
Those are my thoughts so far on the classes I'll be teaching at Egils. Now to try to figure out what to say in my discussion without gushing enormously over the ancient hairstyle goddess Janet Stephens. Check out her YouTube <a href="http://www.youtube.com/user/jntvstp?feature=watch">Channel</a>, it's awesome!Lorienhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16771044572877731963noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7741106236844839986.post-71480056504582637092012-04-29T21:01:00.000-07:002012-04-29T21:01:03.460-07:00Trying something new...So I'm going to try doing something new here on the blog, a period hairstyle of the month, every other week or so, maybe if I'm really dedicated it'll be a weekly occurrence. I'd like to showcase a style, with citations of sources, and briefly explain how I believe the style was accomplished. And of course, there will be photos!<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
I'd like to start with the style my hair is in currently, one I'm calling Norse Braid Loops. I first came across this style from the Viking Answer Lady's <a href="http://www.vikinganswerlady.com/hairstyl.shtml#WomensHairstyles">website</a> on hairstyles when looking for proof of braided pigtails existence about a year ago. I know many women will wear their hair in braided pigtails with their Nordic clothing, and wanted to prove this was accurate.<span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span>Gunnvör mentioned, "women with their hair worn in two braids, falling to either side of the head beside the cheeks" depicted on carved stones from Cumbria.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKYb3m-zrEMIxHbrpE0lldkFOI3TwA4JFw8Rwe8MzgOwTjWhCk27gGX5Z7z6o0Zr8ihCNEzxbpQXRmeMh1xQqIjoS2C_aDjX3-jlcSuvMSHKYRfNSdYA8JCmQYNXvNuurMxLUl4p0t47aY/s1600/Hogback+fragment.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKYb3m-zrEMIxHbrpE0lldkFOI3TwA4JFw8Rwe8MzgOwTjWhCk27gGX5Z7z6o0Zr8ihCNEzxbpQXRmeMh1xQqIjoS2C_aDjX3-jlcSuvMSHKYRfNSdYA8JCmQYNXvNuurMxLUl4p0t47aY/s320/Hogback+fragment.jpg" width="220" /></a>So I decided I had to look them up. I found W.G. Collingwood's article on <a href="http://books.google.com/books/reader?id=tjZJAAAAMAAJ&printsec=frontcover&output=reader&pg=GBS.PA152">Google Books</a>, and copied the photographs. I had only a passing interest in Collingwood's article about the stones, and skimmed it to see what he had to say about the hairstyles. He says, "They have long plaits of hair curled at the ends (not aureoles nor hoods) which suggests that they are meant for female figures." I took his paper with a decent dose of salt as it was printed in 1907. It is clear from the images that the figures have their hair in either one or two sections, some show evidence to texture carved in, probably to indicate braiding, and many have a curl at the end of the tail.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Do follow the link to Collingwood's paper, the images there have more detail than is available in these copies.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjxAMF5E6Ohp00TOWsVQaL4KC3z6M9bfy1G1M2k7b2PsJRq944AufhZ_cqDqvh9UK52NPMxIAvTLKwCL-7qq_2wtjmgnt2uBk1aLGlJtq8PTyxWPK_p9c3YkoE8VVbWTADxQPPJbtAjrUE/s1600/larger+hogback.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjxAMF5E6Ohp00TOWsVQaL4KC3z6M9bfy1G1M2k7b2PsJRq944AufhZ_cqDqvh9UK52NPMxIAvTLKwCL-7qq_2wtjmgnt2uBk1aLGlJtq8PTyxWPK_p9c3YkoE8VVbWTADxQPPJbtAjrUE/s320/larger+hogback.png" width="320" /></a>Looking at the images, I interpret the style as the hair of the ladies with pigtails being parted down the center. I took the hatching on the stone to mean the sections are braided. My hair is extremely straight; I have a hard time getting it to hold a curl, and the women's hair I know that is curly doesn't curl in the same perfect loop. Also the carving that indicates braiding is etched into part of the loop. This lead me to believe that the loop isn't simply the end of the braid left natural, and had to be coerced into this shape.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfwkWcofEJlTet-2TMZ7Lfdhz3_I9pVY_bC7eQpkoN0XsOaCB0hamx4s0puQML9-URMU2Gd13LWJJBPRGlqxj2_1WOJUBVP-oTX_MAaVFnZmzHaTrTJ7TTno3uG5zP6YWayaH-k6xFyWEj/s1600/Norse+Braid+Loops.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfwkWcofEJlTet-2TMZ7Lfdhz3_I9pVY_bC7eQpkoN0XsOaCB0hamx4s0puQML9-URMU2Gd13LWJJBPRGlqxj2_1WOJUBVP-oTX_MAaVFnZmzHaTrTJ7TTno3uG5zP6YWayaH-k6xFyWEj/s1600/Norse+Braid+Loops.jpg" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
For my recreations of this style, I begin by parting my hair down the center and braiding each section to create pigtails. I use modern clear hair elastics to bind the ends when I get to the bottom. Then I use a large blunt needle, labeled in stores as a tapestry needle, and thick black cotton thread to sew the tail of my hair to itself in a loop. </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
This is a photo from last year, a slightly surly (maybe attentive?) expression from the back of court at Egils, but it shows my Norse get up and the loops at the end of the braids. I've learned that the loops at the bottom need to be joined for at least an inch above the elastic. This helps preserve the round shape.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Hope this give people an option for wearing their hair with their "Viking" clothing. It's a cute style that I like, though friends have threatened to stick the loops onto things. The uniqueness of the style helps to complete the look of my garb, and allows me to feel just a little more finished.</div>Lorienhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16771044572877731963noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7741106236844839986.post-16133917938126643372012-04-18T12:42:00.000-07:002012-04-18T12:42:13.740-07:00The Toga wool has arrived!I'm so excited. The wool for The Boy's toga arrived yesterday. I ordered it from a website I'd never seen before, and shipping took a little over a week, which feels slow thanks to the ridiculously speedy delivery from Fabric-store.com I'm used to, but the result is so worth it. <a href="https://www.fabricmartfabrics.com/xcart/home.php">Fabric Mart Fabrics</a> has a somewhat limited selection of fabrics (keeping in mind that I only want natural fibers), but the prices are ridiculously nice, and they take the time to describe not only the weight of the fabric, but how it drapes. There are suggested ideas of what to use the fabric for, but I don't know that they really pay attention to what they're saying, as they suggest making scarves out of gabardine.<br />
<br />
<span id="goog_1529098128"></span><span id="goog_1529098129"></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/"></a>I ordered <a href="https://www.fabricmartfabrics.com/xcart/SWA1615-Worsted-Wool-Crepe-Ivory-64-Wide.html">this</a> ivory wool crepe. It's gorgeous, lightweight and drapey, and extra wide which I didn't realize before. I'm looking forward to cutting it into it to make the curved edge, but I'm not sure if I should wash it or not. I'm worried about it shrinking and getting much thicker than it is now. The only piece of crepe I've worked with in the past got thick and felted after repeated washing, and I definitely don't want that for this wool.<br />
<br />
I suppose I could cut the extra off first, and try washing the extra pieces to see how it washes up before deciding to wash it in the future. I need to test it, since I want to dye some of the fabric to make the stripe on the edge.<br />
<br />
At least I have the giddy thrill awaiting me tomorrow of having a washer and dryer being delivered! For the first time since I moved to Oregon, I'll be able to do laundry in my own home!<br />
<br />
On today's to-do list, aside from dishes, I need to figure out the classes I'll be teaching at Egils this year. I have had people ask if I'd teach how to french braid, and, although it isn't period, braided hair is better than a modern style. I'm also trying to figure out what I'm going to say for my more accurate hair styling class. I think it will be titled "Sewn Hairstyles, Yet Another Thing to Do with a Needle and Thread." Also on the Egil's front, some friends of ours, and their friends, will be joining us, making our own little camping group this year. We need to get land reservations in tomorrow, and get to figure out what equipment we have for cooking. It'll be exciting.<br />
<br />
Ah well, lots to do today. At least last night I made a little progress on the Overly Ambitious Embroidery Project of DOOM! I finished the dark gold color last night. I need to go buy more skeins of thread, I'm running out of nearly every color.<br />
<br />
Keeping Busy,<br />
LLorienhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16771044572877731963noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7741106236844839986.post-91861321425200793622012-04-09T13:26:00.002-07:002012-04-09T13:26:27.773-07:00My Fabric has been shipped!We should be getting our toga on some time next week!Lorienhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16771044572877731963noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7741106236844839986.post-79762808034692796022012-04-07T21:24:00.000-07:002012-04-07T21:24:23.404-07:00Working on Fancy New Garb for the pair of us...The Boy and I are getting "matching" garb. Since there's a chance we might be the next B&B, I've decided it's time to start working on our "potential investiture" garb for June. We decided to go Roman should the occasion arise, and even if it didn't, we'll have a nice set of Roman gear to wear.<br />
<br />
So I'm sort of in the planning stages. I purchased some wool for a toga, and then decided to make up a list of garments I wanted to make, and a rough, totally overestimated budget for them. I've also be perusing period imagery and information sites, looking for the appropriate color combinations and styles that go with the thought of us being invested as territorial governors in Imperial Rome.<br />
<br />
For Bastian I was planning to make:<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal"><b>Tunic</b>- Linen with maroon clavi or bands, sleeves?</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Toga</b>-Wool with maroon band </div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Belt</b>-Fabric, gold fringe?</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Calcei</b>-Leather, dyed dark red</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">We're also considering:</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Subarmalis</b>?-red linen, gold fringe</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Breastplate</b>?-plastic or leather with sculpted embellishments and painted </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://members.ozemail.com.au/~chrisandpeter/radical_romans/male/tunic.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://members.ozemail.com.au/~chrisandpeter/radical_romans/male/tunic.jpg" width="215" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">http://members.ozemail.com.au/~chrisandpeter/<br />
radical_romans/male/tunic.jpg</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal">I'm contemplating how exactly I want to do the Tunic. I can't decide what the appropriate clavi (stripes on the tunic) would be for himself. The two narrow stripes on either shoulder indicate equestrian status, and I haven't found a source that says an equestrian class could become a provincial governor. There are two other clavi patterns repeatedly mentioned online, the senators wore a large stripe down the center of their tunica laticlava, and victorious emperors and generals got to wear the tunica palmate, a purple tunic with gold palm leaves embroidered on it. Clearly The Boy isn't a victorious general or emperor, so the palmate is out. I'm not a big fan of the way the senator's tunic looks with the single large stripe center front. But if it turns out you can't be a provincial governor without being a senator first, then that's the way we have to go.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I read once that the imperial purple was actually a reddish purple, like a maroon, though I can't remember where I saw it. Since The Boy got his PhD at a school whose colors include maroon, I thought it would be a nice touch. Himself will be more comfortable in a linen tunic, especially in June, and linen is a sign of wealth. I'm also not sure about sleeves. I think I want to do a short sleeve, give him a little more coverage on the shoulder.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.dl.ket.org/latin1/things/holidays/halloween/toga.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="toga" border="0" height="224" src="http://www.dl.ket.org/latin1/things/holidays/halloween/toga.gif" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.dl.ket.org/latin1/things/holidays/halloween/togas.htm">http://www.dl.ket.org/latin1/things/holidays/halloween/togas.htm</a> </td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal">I've already purchased the wool crepe I intend to use for the toga. I found a good deal on fabricmartfabrics.com, $9.99/yard for an ivory crepe. I ordered 7 yards, and when I checked out, they gave me a surprise $2 off per yard, and with the shipping it came to less than $65! I plan to cut it to a half circle shape of the earlier Imperial togas, mostly to save money on buying fabric, and because it will be slightly easier to wear. See image 5 as the simplest style. I'm thinking of visiting <a href="http://eugenetextilecenter.com/">Eugene Textile Center</a> and dying the fabric for the clavi and the stripe on the toga to the maroon color.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">The belt is pretty simple, a narrow width of fabric, red since Himself is a squire, with fringe. I like the look of gold fringe.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.florentius.com/calcei-main/Ramshaw-005-web-sml.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://www.florentius.com/calcei-main/Ramshaw-005-web-sml.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.florentius.com/calcei-main.htm">http://www.florentius.com/calcei-main.htm</a> </td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal">The calcei are Roman boots, made from leather with cut work that laces up on top of the foot with some ankle support. Romans wore boots when outside, and sandals indoors. The wealthiest Romans with slaves would have a slave to carry their sandals when they visited others. So The Boy and I both need boots as this will be an outdoor event. I'm also thinking about making these myself, because shoe making seems exciting, but this particular style requires a last, and I don't know if anyone in the area has a set. Roman culture has some guidelines for shoe color, and red shoes are reserved for the Patrician class.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://employees.oneonta.edu/farberas/arth/Images/109images/Roman/augustus/augustus_primam.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://employees.oneonta.edu/farberas/arth/Images/109images/Roman/augustus/augustus_primam.jpg" width="107" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://employees.oneonta.edu/farberas/arth/arth209/augustus.html">http://employees.oneonta.edu/<br />
farberas/arth/arth209/augustus.html</a> </td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal">The garments we're considering for him, but aren't sure are the Subarmalis and Breastplate. They'd be an easy way to save money by excluding them. I want them because of the image of Augustus in his embossed breastplate and toga looks so mmmmmm! The combination of militaristic and oratory makes sense for me since Himself is both a fighter and a talker. If we do manage to get them done, I would make a light weight Subarmalis without all the padding since Himself wouldn't be fighting in it and wouldn't need it. I'm planning it from Crimson Linen from Fabrics-store.com with the pteruges (strips around the waist and shoulders) done in linen with bullion fringe at the bottoms. Theoretically, I'd buy a plastic breastplate that is fairly plain, and use Sculpty or something else to create the embellishments, and paint it in a bronze color. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">And now for the parts that I'm wibbling on.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">As for my new Garb I was planning to make/aquire:</div><div class="MsoNormal"></div><div class="MsoNormal">Tunica interior-white linen, long sleeve</div><div class="MsoNormal">Over Dress-Egyptian style tunic? Gathered neckband? “tapered”?</div><div class="MsoNormal">Palla-silk? Linen? Patterned?</div><div class="MsoNormal">Belt?</div><div class="MsoNormal">Boots-leather, cutwork</div><div class="MsoNormal">Jewelry-moon necklace, two or three drop pearl earrings, coral necklace, bracelets, rings</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.touregypt.net/images/touregypt/mport73.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://www.touregypt.net/images/touregypt/mport73.jpg" width="155" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.touregypt.net/featurestories/mport.htm">http://www.touregypt.net/featurestories/<br />
mport.htm</a> </td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal">I'm not sure exactly what I'll be making for myself yet, since I can't seem to pick a style. I know I want a new linen under tunic, the tunica interior which will be plain white and long sleeved. I might embellish the neckline with a little trim, but not much. I found a website with a bunch of Fayum mummy portraits, and I love the look of this lady. The blue and gold are a lovely combination. The ladies of Roman Egypt all wear colorful tunics, many in red tones, including one in bright pink! Most have clavi in a dark color, some with a thin gold edging to black bands. There is a large variety in their jewelry, but the metal all appears to be gold, and there is a frequency of pearls. Most of the necklaces are chokers, but there are a few with longer.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Alternatively, I could stick to the Roman styles I've been doing and do a sleeveless stola. There are a couple styles I haven't experimented with yet, specifically the banded stolla as done by Iohanna fillia Iacobi. <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/jenthies/842192722/in/photostream/">http://www.flickr.com/photos/jenthies/842192722/in/photostream/</a></div><div class="MsoNormal">The banded style or one with the top gathered into shoulder straps are much more appropriate for a woman living in Roman Italy like my persona does. I'm not sure what colors I'm going to use yet, I haven't found a fabric I'm in love with yet, and there's not much in my stash that's calling to me. I have a metallic silk stola that I started ages ago that could be finished for this purpose, but because it is so see through I'd want a layer between stola and tunica interior. No idea on that yet.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Equally, I have no idea what I want to do for the palla. The fabric I'm currently using for a palla is a gorgeous gold silk sari with metallic threads woven throughout. But I'm getting a little tired of it. I'm not sure what I want instead, a linen or wool or silk, patterned or plain, maybe with fringe along the edges? The sash I'm using now is a brown and white silk, and it's fine, but again, I'm bored with it. I would love for this to be the opportunity to get something nicer, but I haven't really looked into it.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.florentius.com/calcei-main/lady-1-web-small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="156" src="http://www.florentius.com/calcei-main/lady-1-web-small.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.florentius.com/calcei-main.htm">http://www.florentius.com/calcei-main.htm</a> </td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal">I also want to make myself a cute pair of Roman shoes to wear for this. The same Roman reenactor site that has the cute boots above has a pretty pair of women's shoes. I want to dye mine red also, because I wouldn't be the wife of a high ranking governor if I weren't high class myself.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I'm looking forward to making some of the jewelry for this outfit. I've found a little bit of information about the crescent moon pendant worn by many of the Fayum mummies, but I need to find out more. The little I know is that they are good luck charms against evil, and are likely devotions to Diana. They're very pretty, and I like adding little things to an outfit that make it more accurate. I also want to find the findings necessary to make the three drop pearl earrings that are very common in portraiture.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">So those are my current thoughts on the fancy new clothes. I didn't realize I had so much more planning to do on my side. I suppose I just have to wait a little while for some fabric to speak to me.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Also, I have no idea what to do with my hair!</div><br />
<div class="MsoNormal"> </div>Lorienhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16771044572877731963noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7741106236844839986.post-47463257444648111512012-02-07T00:04:00.000-08:002012-02-07T00:04:08.751-08:00So I've added new items to the To Do List...As I mentioned a little while back, The Boy and I are one set of the Baronial Candidates. I've decided to get started on fancy clothes now so if the time comes and Himself and I are chosen, I'm not scrambling as badly to get things done. It allows me to spend a little more money and a little more time planning and purchasing. Theoretically, if we were to step up, it would be at June Investiture, the Principality's step up. We're a little worried, because no clear communication has come down from the King and Queen. We don't know if there's any big issues going on that would take their attention away from this decision, but we're hoping they get their butts in gear soon.<br />
<br />
Meanwhile I'm planning...<br />
<br />
I'm hoping to do a big houppelande for The Boy, probably royal or dark blue wool, with either dagged sleeves, or bag sleeves, I'm not sure which because I want to do some pewter casting and make little falcon dangles to sew onto the left sleeve. However, I haven't really done enough research to make decisions on it yet. I'm not sure what underlayers I'll need, definitely a white linen undertunic and braies. I'm thinking I might need a linen cote or jupon, but I'll need to research 1380's german to be sure. I also don't know if I want the hose to be linen or wool. I'm leaning towards linen because it will be June after all, and The Boy and I are rather on the insulated side.<br />
<br />
I've got a color scheme in mind right now, but I'm not sure about it, because I was thinking dark blue and bright red, but I've already done a linen blend houp in those colors. Maybe I'll do a set of bright yellow hose for him, so as to go with his coat of arms, but I'm not sure. Bright yellow hose, bright red belt, blue houp? So very primary. I have a "trade" in the works with The Wifey and her Boy. She has me making him a shirt to wear with his kilt at Gulf Wars this year, due in about a month. In return for doing the sewing, they are supposed to be hunting around at Gulf Wars for a fancy new Squires Belt that I can purchase. There aren't as many good merchants up here, and I won't be at any event that might before the potential due date of the fancy clothes. I know in the past I've found some pretties at War that fit my imagined Squire Belt.<br />
<br />
I'm not entirely sure what I want to make for myself. I'm working(ish) on conflict checking my arms, and thinking about making a heraldic cote as my potential step up clothes. I'm not committed to this idea yet, because I'm not sure if the arms will pass. The blazon is nice and simple, but rather easy to conflict. Azure, a fox rampant sinister argent, in base a dancetty argent. Anything that looks like a dog conflicts with any other thing that looks like a dog. So my white dancing fox that looks left conflicts with any light colored dog on one foot looking left. Ah well...Lorienhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16771044572877731963noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7741106236844839986.post-53291938577262880042012-01-23T11:26:00.000-08:002012-01-23T11:26:39.995-08:00First steps have been taken...The Boy and I have thrown our "hats" into the ring for B&B as our current Baron and Baroness are stepping down this year. This is exciting, but we're both avoiding getting our hopes up. We moved into the barony only a year ago, and have been warned by everyone we asked prior to sending in our letter of intent that the area is rather insular, and it is unlikely that "foreigners" will be chosen. There is only one other couple running, and we're friends with them.<br />
<br />
Yesterday we had the first Candidate Q&A. It was sparsely attended, but the questions posed to us were thought provoking. Everyone noticed that the two sets of candidates had extremely similar responses to questions. Aside from a question about the Sargentry, we seemed to be very knowledgeable, engaging and earnest. The Sargentry is a uniquely An Tiran thing, and it specifically belongs to the principality of the Summits. As far as we understand it, the Sargentry is a set of trials to prove the test taker to be knowledgeable in the variety of aspects of the SCA. The Baroness usually is the one that puts her seal of approval on a person in the trials. And then it gets confusing. A previous Baroness that I like very much and share a lot of similar viewpoints with, believes that sargents should be a short step away from becoming a Peer. I look at the variety of people that I know that are sargents, and I don't see that. I see people that are a rather long way from being a Peer. So maybe it's all in the interpretation of the individual Baroness, but I think that should I become Baroness, it's going to be a whole lot harder to become a Sargent. I want the possibility of saying, I support this person to the Peer circle considering them, and I want the position of sitting Baroness to back up my opinions.<br />
<br />
Ah well. Reconciling the differences from here and elsewhere isn't always easy. North-westerners are weird. We're doing the best we can, and that's all that we can do.Lorienhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16771044572877731963noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7741106236844839986.post-29575002317914174462012-01-21T13:31:00.000-08:002012-01-21T13:31:05.327-08:00Housebook Documentation....<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: #666666; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; font-size: 22pt;"><span style="color: white;">Patterned after the Housebook Master:<o:p></o:p></span></span></b></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: #666666; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; font-size: 22pt;"><span style="color: white;">A 1480’s German Dress<o:p></o:p></span></span></b></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: #666666; color: white;"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; font-size: 14pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span> </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh9fF_9CnzPGad6Ct-QMP72Ci7dWz5R-U_PqMdanoYIKVqub_im63rR75j13SKRJYB6G2hxtJyt6XUTJz-rUst-TS1GuXa3V2KYCJSSjVuJd1Y8d85nDcpY6wX2sVvFxweg4mZ5EUC3gKN/s1600/Lady+with+Letter+coat+of+arms+Housebook.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh9fF_9CnzPGad6Ct-QMP72Ci7dWz5R-U_PqMdanoYIKVqub_im63rR75j13SKRJYB6G2hxtJyt6XUTJz-rUst-TS1GuXa3V2KYCJSSjVuJd1Y8d85nDcpY6wX2sVvFxweg4mZ5EUC3gKN/s640/Lady+with+Letter+coat+of+arms+Housebook.jpg" width="436" /></a></div><br />
<span style="background-color: #666666;"> <span style="font-size: 14pt; text-align: center;"> </span></span><br />
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: #666666; font-size: 18pt;">Lady Petronia Casta<o:p></o:p></span></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 18.0pt;">mka Lorien Haigh</span><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial; font-size: 14pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial; font-size: 14pt;"><br clear="all" style="page-break-before: always;" /> </span> <div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">This Dress in History<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">This dress is based off several images from the <i>Medieval Housebook</i>, an impressive manuscript started in 1475 in southern <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Germany</st1:place></st1:country-region>. This collection of images, mostly pen and ink drawings, illustrating life in and around a princely court, are the majority of the works attributed to the Housebook Master (Getty). His work occasionally features young women wearing an unusual dress that fascinated me.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">The dress (kleid) features a very tightly fitted bodice with an odd pleated section on the stomach and center back, an extremely low cut neckline that shows off the undergarment (hemd) <i>(Fig. 1)</i>, with lacing that crosses over the collarbone often from a decorative lacing jewelry piece sewn onto the dress, and a full, overly long skirt that pools on the ground, and trails behind some women in a train. <i>(Fig. 2)<o:p></o:p></i></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">The Housebook Master isn’t the only artist to have depicted this style of dress, and there are a few variations in the style. Some images show the sleeves to be widely cut, and consistent in width from bicep to wrist or longer. <i>(Fig. 3)</i> The armscye of this sleeve is deeply cut on the back of the dress, causing the sleeve to cover the shoulder blade. <i>(Fig. 4)</i> The alternative version of the sleeve is three quarter length, and tightly fitted from the bicep to the middle of the forearm. It is usually shown with a cut away on the sleeve from hem to just above the elbow. The sleeve is then laced across the opening and the hemd’s sleeve. <i>(Fig. 5)<o:p></o:p></i></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">The shape of the neckline varies a little from dress to dress, though the majority of them are a slightly rounded V-shape from the collarbone. There are a few higher, more rounded necklines, <i>(Fig. 6)</i> and some have decorative collars around the back or decorative bands all the way around the neckline. <i>(Fig. 3)</i> The dress is frequently worn with a belt, either to hold pouches, <i>(Fig. 4)</i> or used to hike up the extra long skirts for walking. <i>(Fig. 2)</i> Occasionally, the lifted skirts show off another garment below the outer dress, either a petticoat, or likely, and under dress that is fitted throughout the body. In one example, the under dress is checky patterned. <i>(Fig. 2)<o:p></o:p></i></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">The hemd is usually only visible at the front of the neckline, but an couple images of peasant women in their hemds show a banded neckline, pleated only at the center front (presumably also the center back) and full long sleeves, loose or gathered into a band at mid-forearm <i>(Figs. 7&8)</i>. The dress is most frequently worn with poulaines, shoes with pointed toes that can sometimes be extremely long. <i>(Figs. 1, 2, 5, 6&7)</i></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">There is also some variety to the styles of headdress worn with this kleid, though they almost always worn over a pair of braids, drawn up over the head in front of the ears. <i>(Figs. 1-5&7)</i> (There are occasions of loose hair, but these are often scenes of saints, young women, or extremely casual.) With these braids is worn most commonly either a fringed cap <i>(Figs. 1&2)</i> (seen most often in conjunction with the large loose sleeves), or a wulsthaube, a peculiar German headdress of white or patterned fabric drawn tight over a bump along the top back of the woman’s head <i>(Figs. 5&6)</i>. A narrow ribbon around the head that supports a fringe (called a gefranse) that drapes over the back of the neck was sometimes worn alone, <i>(Fig 9)</i> with a floral wreath, <i>(Fig. 10)</i> or some combination of other hats. A cap and neck fringe are in at least one image, <i>(Fig. 4)</i> the wulsthaube and fringe are pretty common for this style, <i>(Figs. 5&9)</i> and occasionally there are unique hats seen only once in imagery. <i>(Fig. 11)<o:p></o:p></i></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Historical Methods<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I have found very little information on how this particular garment would have been constructed in period. Much of the construction information available is for either earlier or later garments and from other geographical regions, but from this information can be extrapolated to give an idea on how this dress was constructed.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Natural fibers are the only ones that existed in the 15<sup>th</sup> century. Wool and Linen were the most common fibers in southern German at the time, though some silk was available, and there are other varieties of bast fibers that would have been known. Very little linen survives from the medieval period, as plant fibers decompose more quickly than protein fibers. Wool fibers have a certain amount of stretch to them, and this would help produce a smooth fitted body, but a fabric with less give would be beneficial for the supportive nature of the bodice, like linen of moderate weight. The images of this dress show the fabric puddling in thick folds on the ground. This indicates a heavy, denser fabric, likely mid- to heavy-weight wool. The images from the Housebook don’t have much detail of the texture of the fabric, and most of the outer gowns have no pattern; the few images in color show a solid color garment. <i>(Fig. 12)<o:p></o:p></i></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Linen would be the most likely material for the hemd, as such a garment would need to hold up to both body dirt and oils and repeated washing. Colored images present the hemd as mostly white, though several are embellished with bands of other colors, and embroidery or beadwork.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Hand sewing was the only option for constructing garments during this period. Garments have been found in London, a little earlier than the Housebook Master was working, where the stitching has completely decomposed, leaving the impression of seam lines, indicating the predominate sewing thread of the period was linen <span style="background-color: #666666;"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;">(Crowfoot, Ritchard, and Staniland 151)</span>.</span> Techniques for sewing wool from Hedby in northern <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Germany</st1:place></st1:country-region> show a few varieties in joining methods. The raw edges of the garment would be turned under once and hem stitched before joining pieces together with an overcast stitch, or the seam would be sewn first with a running stitch, and the edges overcast together afterwards (Jones).</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">The pleating at center front and back is cause for confusion. Knife pleats and box pleats are the most common forms of pleating in garments depicted in historical costume, but create a fairly flat pleat. Cartridge pleats and rolled pleats are less frequent and are used to create volume in the pleat. Cartridge pleats are intended to gather a large amount of fabric into a small space without creating a bulky seam, and makes the fabric spring away from the body. Rolled pleats are rare, and there is very little evidence that it was used before Victorian times, but it creates long tubular pleats and seems to be the method used to create the skirts in some Renaissance paintings, specifically Lucas Cranach’s 16<sup>th</sup> century German gowns (Leed). The dress appears to close center front, and a few images show center front lacing hiding behind the pleats.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">What I Did<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I decided to make this gown a little less than three weeks out from the event it debuted at, though I’d been considering the dress for over half a year before. I’ve used historical materials and techniques where I could, given the time crunch and a lack of available funds.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I was given a five-yard piece of wool coating as a thank you gift from friends. It is thick enough to create the beautiful folds when draped. It came to my possession as a chai-grey color, and, being in love with the teal color of the woman’s dress in <u>Gotha Lovers</u> <i>(Fig. 12)</i>, I decided to dye the fabric. I began with some RIT dye, but it was insufficient to color the fabric to any real depth, so I purchased some Jacquard Acid dye. Neither of these is period, but the depth of color was my goal, and I have very little knowledge of period dyes. In the short amount of time I had, I chose the dyeing technique I had some familiarity with.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">To line the bodice and sleeves, I used some medium weight blue linen that I had for another project. The dress is sewn with modern polyester thread for several reasons, but primary was cost and color, I couldn’t find a good color match in silk thread to justify it costing more. Lacing cord is supposed to be black silk I bartered for, but the thread has gone walkabout since the dress’s debut, and has been replaced (hopefully temporarily) by cotton embroidery floss. With no skill in casting jewelry, I purchased a modern necklace clasp and used it to create my lacing loops. The hemd is made from light weight white linen.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I decided to pattern myself for this garment, mostly to see if I could. I believe that in period at least one other person would be doing the patterning, and it would have made it easier, but my work schedule made meeting someone else difficult. Patterning the sleeves was an impressive bit of torture. I went through over a dozen incarnations of the pattern before settling on the one I have now, and I’m not entirely convinced its right. The technique is based off that of the Grande Assiette, where the armscye is cut deep in back, and has a gore set into the back seam to create the large circumference necessary without adding bulk to the upper arm of the sleeve. The sleeve is patterned with the seam running up the center back of the arm, as is correct for most period garments. The elbow opening follows the seam, but is asymmetric, as the sleeve is angled to reduce bunching in the elbow. The eyelets on the sleeve opening are done by hand, though they are bound with polyester thread. The cord for lacing is made by hand by pulling a chain stitch tight, though I didn’t use a crochet hook.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">The deep neckline of the dress is rounded, which was uncommon, but necessary because I am not shaped like the small women of the time. The dress has been modified since the first wearing to open the neckline wider, since it seemed too narrow when first patterned. The bodice has fairly straightforward seams; waist seam at natural waist or even a little below, side seams run vertically on the sides, center back seam. The only unusual seam was the shoulder seams, which all appear to be to the back of the shoulder line. I chose to close the dress with hooks and eyes that run down the center front, which is boned with a piece of plastic cable tie. I believe the dress in period was either laced closed, or had hooks and eyes, but cannot document the hooks. I also cannot prove there was boning in the dress, but my large bust requires more support.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I only had enough fabric left after cutting out the bodice and sleeves to make two panels of skirt. I chose to cut a back panel and two fronts from this fabric. The pleated portion of the skirt is cut in one with the smooth sides. I carefully measured the width I needed for the pleats, measured down the necessary height difference of the pleats, added the width I needed for the smooth sections of the skirt, and drew a diagonal line from the end of the waist to the length of the hem, giving the skirt panels a tiny amount of flare. The small triangular wedge that was left was flipped upside down to create a narrow gore to add just a tiny bit more flare at the hem. I purposefully cut the skirt about six inches too long in the front, and twelve to sixteen inches long in the back to create not only the train, but also the fabric puddling on the floor when the skirts are unbelted.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">For the pleating, I choose to use six rolled pleats each for the back and the front. Most of the images showed six to ten pleats across the front. I had seen the results of others’ cartridge pleating, and decided the pleats were too narrow and too many to be the best method for my pleats. I specifically choose to sew my pleated portion to the bodice of the dress by leaving the bodice whole underneath it. In every version I’d read about online, the seamstress had chosen to cut out the portion of the bodice where the pleating was, and inset the pleated panel. Doing that perplexed me, and one seamstress who had done it mentioned trouble with the pleats pulling apart under the strain of being such a tight fitted garment. By leaving the fabric whole as a background to sew the pleats to, most of the strain is off the pleats. My fabric tends to have more stretch to it than I want.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">For the hemd, I drew up a cutting diagram and made the whole garment in about 12 hours. The shape is based entirely off the image of the peasant woman with sickle and shield. <i>(Fig. 7)</i> The center front and center back are gathered, and the whole neckline edge is bound. The armscyes are curved, but the sleeve is cut as a rectangle with no sleevehead. I cut the side seams at an angle, similar to the skirt panels, and inserted the resulting triangles as gores on the side seams to increase the width of the fabric. When I finished, I discovered that I hadn’t allowed quite enough room in the armscye, and the fit was too tight, so I added two small gussets to the armpits for more room.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">With this dress I wear my fringed red hat, until I have time to make myself a wulsthaube. I wear cheap pointed toe shoes, because proper poulaines are expensive, and a belt to hike up my skirts so I can walk and dance. I’m looking forward to making a gefranse to wear over my hair on warmer days, and I hope to create something checky to wear beneath this dress, but need to do more research on whether that is a full under dress or simply a petticoat.</div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh9fF_9CnzPGad6Ct-QMP72Ci7dWz5R-U_PqMdanoYIKVqub_im63rR75j13SKRJYB6G2hxtJyt6XUTJz-rUst-TS1GuXa3V2KYCJSSjVuJd1Y8d85nDcpY6wX2sVvFxweg4mZ5EUC3gKN/s1600/Lady+with+Letter+coat+of+arms+Housebook.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh9fF_9CnzPGad6Ct-QMP72Ci7dWz5R-U_PqMdanoYIKVqub_im63rR75j13SKRJYB6G2hxtJyt6XUTJz-rUst-TS1GuXa3V2KYCJSSjVuJd1Y8d85nDcpY6wX2sVvFxweg4mZ5EUC3gKN/s200/Lady+with+Letter+coat+of+arms+Housebook.jpg" width="136" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Fig. 1</i></td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6EqcCK4_5yfoqMoJC9HnmzQNvh1VTEH6RWHHNFJ7YRlmTg_NqbkpcpjmZEKHaQ5tZ2I55JJjNaOJFn22STIRajzQamGpKCxGgedxv0lMTQWmFWdR_11159pZVVsAnte-49OAf-xBmx90D/s1600/Radish+Coat+of+Arm+Housebook.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6EqcCK4_5yfoqMoJC9HnmzQNvh1VTEH6RWHHNFJ7YRlmTg_NqbkpcpjmZEKHaQ5tZ2I55JJjNaOJFn22STIRajzQamGpKCxGgedxv0lMTQWmFWdR_11159pZVVsAnte-49OAf-xBmx90D/s200/Radish+Coat+of+Arm+Housebook.jpg" width="170" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Fig. 2</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4ocCWLID_g8d6KOeZaN7YOQ5fHSuC2dkKHcazFixD0yWaresOsVHNAGYwKEJm5SJET9AYl7qIACkxaOjutwMx5akPEWqfhK5sh2GRli7-gfysuoqI5Ckxe9hzr6i3Ax0YndAn-vQ6JSSr/s1600/Saint+Barbara+and+Saint+Catherine+Housebook.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4ocCWLID_g8d6KOeZaN7YOQ5fHSuC2dkKHcazFixD0yWaresOsVHNAGYwKEJm5SJET9AYl7qIACkxaOjutwMx5akPEWqfhK5sh2GRli7-gfysuoqI5Ckxe9hzr6i3Ax0YndAn-vQ6JSSr/s200/Saint+Barbara+and+Saint+Catherine+Housebook.jpg" width="136" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Fig. 3</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYgaMIUp1rd3_qPuYw9B40xEWJz5bw9Cd2g-0KpzTGHtdUE4-BIok1ikTZZDSndk60ZMwYZWxhc7jHBtvtZSg2joYrdjcUAdovreIng-z1DdUF5JIyaBH73ZU8p44fqXoO005scX-5cuu8/s1600/MbxgTwoCardPlayersLLcat99.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="193" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYgaMIUp1rd3_qPuYw9B40xEWJz5bw9Cd2g-0KpzTGHtdUE4-BIok1ikTZZDSndk60ZMwYZWxhc7jHBtvtZSg2joYrdjcUAdovreIng-z1DdUF5JIyaBH73ZU8p44fqXoO005scX-5cuu8/s200/MbxgTwoCardPlayersLLcat99.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Fig. 4</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVkZV1Po6qykzCcWkj9WFS1igTv_HhVgAU7K4T7cgDnWoi3-5fDbgX2dOTcuxpuc6j-EMohO8ST6rqbemFuLlFzPb5GVouQdlgaOq1q9-77Pv5KhAArRok7TsAbNmQeusUv0SKtJO9qhyphenhyphenR/s1600/Standing+Couple+Housebook.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVkZV1Po6qykzCcWkj9WFS1igTv_HhVgAU7K4T7cgDnWoi3-5fDbgX2dOTcuxpuc6j-EMohO8ST6rqbemFuLlFzPb5GVouQdlgaOq1q9-77Pv5KhAArRok7TsAbNmQeusUv0SKtJO9qhyphenhyphenR/s200/Standing+Couple+Housebook.jpg" width="133" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Fig. 5</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2kohjtIXim3ogv0DpvCWvP0WxoR89XrCxOgkjr9iwWsgt8enzH_yMUqmzkduESptKBheHGCH2ZfaOyfOrgQ5j_6k9DG8x2_WnmzfoqVT_P52ulm3m8HRbPuGrrz61s40Ed1Gqy6rDWQOS/s1600/Young+Couple+Housebook+1480.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2kohjtIXim3ogv0DpvCWvP0WxoR89XrCxOgkjr9iwWsgt8enzH_yMUqmzkduESptKBheHGCH2ZfaOyfOrgQ5j_6k9DG8x2_WnmzfoqVT_P52ulm3m8HRbPuGrrz61s40Ed1Gqy6rDWQOS/s200/Young+Couple+Housebook+1480.jpg" width="190" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Fig. 6</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR14ZGwYsfqZRqjMpoPp0BdVmGqhiH2saOrKz7bcUQacHv3TwiVwLmL2Wnpej75TynrS7UdQq6OBR9QNqxNEhCmeoSjq6z72L7cS6XvgyfgX8DXFZU72eYSOd9Ng96bIPFX6FfUYpfzF9g/s1600/Copy+of+MH.PeasantWoman%2528LLcat81%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="195" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR14ZGwYsfqZRqjMpoPp0BdVmGqhiH2saOrKz7bcUQacHv3TwiVwLmL2Wnpej75TynrS7UdQq6OBR9QNqxNEhCmeoSjq6z72L7cS6XvgyfgX8DXFZU72eYSOd9Ng96bIPFX6FfUYpfzF9g/s200/Copy+of+MH.PeasantWoman%2528LLcat81%2529.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Fig. 7</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAvTBwerQFcQHam7H6YgyZHCXlQ3SUTSm1-ABWWZlt3R2NwrobmOyRV0jyaYNSb9NvACOhoVV-9v1N9NN5FiZRmKUo_pP1S6veO1GyOfUdvfvGkf88z-5CZthIPVsBm9O2QvCUCRQ-hYnz/s1600/woman+with+two+children+and+a+blank+shield+housebook.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAvTBwerQFcQHam7H6YgyZHCXlQ3SUTSm1-ABWWZlt3R2NwrobmOyRV0jyaYNSb9NvACOhoVV-9v1N9NN5FiZRmKUo_pP1S6veO1GyOfUdvfvGkf88z-5CZthIPVsBm9O2QvCUCRQ-hYnz/s200/woman+with+two+children+and+a+blank+shield+housebook.jpg" width="156" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Fig. 8</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ09pQt6rS-Dcp8VgyQs-BeyUOXJd67wyCb-8r_6ivpxypIuEEfsH2Rx0hnTB15LaoInvSVedDpwcYPR6vFMxpCiHjRz_EFq9Gxy37n4n3KeyAkp673iL5N2ljimgToFHjdz2qeRWnDKTy/s1600/Lovers+with+a+falcon+Housebook.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ09pQt6rS-Dcp8VgyQs-BeyUOXJd67wyCb-8r_6ivpxypIuEEfsH2Rx0hnTB15LaoInvSVedDpwcYPR6vFMxpCiHjRz_EFq9Gxy37n4n3KeyAkp673iL5N2ljimgToFHjdz2qeRWnDKTy/s200/Lovers+with+a+falcon+Housebook.jpg" width="145" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Fig. 10</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg17iDEXZ0pAYtcqQYZZcBqocu-J3swW1GKiIHHxkGiz3iEt-7xG8lu7TomgHLAhpUodFk2uMaTzjpHyFjjWfZd6NyXln8Q68vij5_-YeRKJXvJ-Ar6QCFx1-_16IplFHdqkGo0qCitW9hX/s1600/MH.YoungMan%2528LLcat66%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg17iDEXZ0pAYtcqQYZZcBqocu-J3swW1GKiIHHxkGiz3iEt-7xG8lu7TomgHLAhpUodFk2uMaTzjpHyFjjWfZd6NyXln8Q68vij5_-YeRKJXvJ-Ar6QCFx1-_16IplFHdqkGo0qCitW9hX/s200/MH.YoungMan%2528LLcat66%2529.jpg" width="177" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Fig. 9</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf1pDxKmWyG8B3zyV2kU3kL3eS6pT-o_m6k-E59Pwsp9GwBklFd0VxFZJHUmnnvaZUepZr6rYInDTJ_X135J_Re9-2I2uw703-Vtq_6qwbB4Y2p7qxQZh-_Umn6lfd5adN-m-n1Gqu9L37/s1600/MbxgLoversOnHorsebackLLcat104.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="168" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf1pDxKmWyG8B3zyV2kU3kL3eS6pT-o_m6k-E59Pwsp9GwBklFd0VxFZJHUmnnvaZUepZr6rYInDTJ_X135J_Re9-2I2uw703-Vtq_6qwbB4Y2p7qxQZh-_Umn6lfd5adN-m-n1Gqu9L37/s200/MbxgLoversOnHorsebackLLcat104.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Fig. 11</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3y0VUn8-uPd3_fyTb4nFscDYH4RNTKDoZNRc1ByREDQoOsgeao5IF7Fg1WyYdbFXlkenkJC84j_Lx8xzDkCt0n4xhdieMkY5RkRdYz-n4JXY8cRc4izK68-fAjLqrGK9YhuZyP4L6kvSe/s1600/Gotha+Lovers.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3y0VUn8-uPd3_fyTb4nFscDYH4RNTKDoZNRc1ByREDQoOsgeao5IF7Fg1WyYdbFXlkenkJC84j_Lx8xzDkCt0n4xhdieMkY5RkRdYz-n4JXY8cRc4izK68-fAjLqrGK9YhuZyP4L6kvSe/s200/Gotha+Lovers.jpg" width="138" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Fig. 12</i></td></tr>
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</div><div style="text-align: center;">Bibliography</div><br />
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: center; text-indent: -.5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-indent: -.5in;">Crowfoot, <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Elisabeth</st1:city>, <st1:country-region w:st="on">Frances</st1:country-region></st1:place> Ritchard, and Kay Staniland. <i>Textiles and Clothing, c.1150-c.1450</i>. <st1:city w:st="on">London</st1:city>: <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placetype w:st="on">Museum</st1:placetype> of <st1:placename w:st="on">London</st1:placename></st1:place> Publishing, 1992. eBook. 14 Jan 2012.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-indent: -.5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-indent: -.5in;"><a href="http://i797.photobucket.com/albums/yy252/gluckliche-eme/Master%20of%20the%20Housebook/82.jpg" target="_blank">Gotha Lovers</a>. <i>(Fig. 12)</i> Master of the Housebook. c. 1484. Schlossmuseum. <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Freidenstein</st1:city>, <st1:country-region w:st="on">Germany</st1:country-region></st1:place>. Wikipedia Commons. 20 Jan 2010. <http://commons.wikimedia.org/>. <http://www.gluckliche-eme.com/masterofthehousebook.htm>. 14 Mar 2011.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-indent: -.5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-indent: -.5in;">Jones, Heather Rose. "Archaeological Sewing." <i>Heather Rose Jones</i>. 29 Feb 2004. Web. 14 Jan 2012. </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-indent: -.5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-indent: -.5in;"><a href="http://i797.photobucket.com/albums/yy252/gluckliche-eme/Master%20of%20the%20Housebook/10.jpg" target="_blank">Lady with Letter Coat of Arms</a>. <i>(Fig. 1)</i> Master of the Housebook. c. 1475/1500. National Art Collections <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Dresden</st1:city></st1:place>. <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Dresden</st1:city>, <st1:country-region w:st="on">Germany</st1:country-region></st1:place>. Bildindex der Kunst und Architektur. 19 Jan. 2010, <<a href="http://www.bildindex.de/">http://www.bildindex.de/</a>>. <http://www.gluckliche-eme.com/masterofthehousebook.htm>. 14 Mar 2011</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-indent: -.5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-indent: -.5in;"><a href="http://i797.photobucket.com/albums/yy252/gluckliche-eme/Master%20of%20the%20Housebook/9.jpg" target="_blank">Lady with Radish Coat of Arms</a>. <i>(Fig. 2)</i> Master of the Housebook. c. 1475/1500. National Art Collections <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Dresden</st1:city></st1:place>. <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Dresden</st1:city>, <st1:country-region w:st="on">Germany</st1:country-region></st1:place>. Bildindex der Kunst und Architektur. 19 Jan. 2010, <<a href="http://www.bildindex.de/">http://www.bildindex.de/</a>>. <http://www.gluckliche-eme.com/masterofthehousebook.htm>. 14 Mar 2011.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-indent: -.5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-indent: -.5in;">Leed, Drea. "Period Pleats." <i>Elizabethan Costuming Page</i>. N.p., n.d. Web. <http://www.elizabethancostume.net/pleats/>. 14 Jan 2012.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-indent: -.5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-indent: -.5in;"><u>Lovers on Horseback</u>. <i>(Fig. 11)</i> Attributed to Master bxg, active c. 1470-1490. <http://www.gluckliche-eme.com/15thcentury.htm>. 14 Mar 2011<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-indent: -.5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-indent: -.5in;"><a href="http://i797.photobucket.com/albums/yy252/gluckliche-eme/Master%20of%20the%20Housebook/12.jpg" target="_blank">Lovers with a Falcon</a>. <i>(Fig. 10)</i> Master of the Housebook. c. 1480. National Art Collections <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Dresden</st1:city></st1:place>. <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Dresden</st1:city>, <st1:country-region w:st="on">Germany</st1:country-region></st1:place>. Bildindex der Kunst und Architektur. 19 Jan. 2010, <<a href="http://www.bildindex.de/">http://www.bildindex.de/</a>>. <http://www.gluckliche-eme.com/masterofthehousebook.htm>. 14 Mar 2011</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-indent: -.5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-indent: -.5in;">"Master of the Housebook (<st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placename w:st="on">Getty</st1:placename> <st1:placetype w:st="on">Museum</st1:placetype></st1:place>)." <i>The Getty</i>. The Getty, n.d. Web. <http://www.getty.edu/art/gettyguide/artMakerDetails?maker=17890>. 11 Jan 2012.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-indent: -.5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-indent: -.5in;"><a href="http://myra.hem.nu/costume/images/HousebookMaster/LL(FiledtKoko1985)/MH.PeasantWoman(LLcat81).jpg">Peasant woman with sickle and shield</a><i>. (Fig. 7) Livelier than Life- The Master of the <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Amsterdam</st1:city></st1:place> Cabinet or the Housebook Master</i>. JP Filedt Kok. <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Amsterdam</st1:place></st1:city> 1985. <http://myra.hem.nu/costume/Documentation/Artist/HousebookMaster.htm>. 12 Nov 2011</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-indent: -.5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-indent: -.5in;"><u>Playing Cards</u>. <i>(Fig. 4)</i> Attributed to Master bxg, active c. 1470-1490. <http://www.gluckliche-eme.com/15thcentury.htm>. 12 Jan 2012<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-indent: -.5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-indent: -.5in;"><a href="http://i797.photobucket.com/albums/yy252/gluckliche-eme/Master%20of%20the%20Housebook/72.jpg" target="_blank">Standing Couple</a>. <i>(Fig. 5)</i> Master of the Housebook. c. 1480. Staatliche Museen. <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Berlin</st1:city>, <st1:country-region w:st="on">Germany</st1:country-region></st1:place>. Web Gallery of Art. 20 Jan 2010. <http://www.wga.hu/>. <http://www.gluckliche-eme.com/masterofthehousebook.htm>. 12 Jan 2012</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-indent: -.5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-indent: -.5in;"><a href="http://i797.photobucket.com/albums/yy252/gluckliche-eme/Master%20of%20the%20Housebook/71.jpg" target="_blank">St Barbara and St Catherine</a>. <i>(Fig. 3) </i>Master of the Housebook. c. 1485/1490. Rijksmuseum. <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Amsterdam</st1:city>, <st1:country-region w:st="on">Netherlands</st1:country-region></st1:place>. Web Gallery of Art. 20 Jan 2010. <http://www.wga.hu/>. <http://www.gluckliche-eme.com/masterofthehousebook.htm>. 19 Nov 2011</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-indent: -.5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-indent: -.5in;"><a href="http://i797.photobucket.com/albums/yy252/gluckliche-eme/Master%20of%20the%20Housebook/80.jpg" target="_blank">Woman with Two Children and a Blank Shield</a>. <i>(Fig. 8)</i> Master of the Housebook. c. 1475/1500. <st1:placetype w:st="on">Museum</st1:placetype> of <st1:placename w:st="on">Fine Arts</st1:placename>, <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Boston</st1:city></st1:place>. <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Boston</st1:city>, <st1:state w:st="on">Massachusetts</st1:state></st1:place>. 20 Jan 2010. <http://www.mfa.org/>. <http://www.gluckliche-eme.com/masterofthehousebook.htm>. 12 Jan 2012</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-indent: -.5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-indent: -.5in;"><a href="http://i797.photobucket.com/albums/yy252/gluckliche-eme/Master%20of%20the%20Housebook/39.jpg" target="_blank">Young Couple</a>. <i>(Fig. 6)</i> Master of the Housebook. c. 1480. Universitätsbibliothek. <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Erlangen</st1:city>, <st1:country-region w:st="on">Germany</st1:country-region></st1:place>. Bildindex der Kunst und Architektur. 19 Jan 2010, <<a href="http://www.bildindex.de/">http://www.bildindex.de/</a>>. <http://www.gluckliche-eme.com/masterofthehousebook.htm>. 19 Nov 2011</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-indent: -.5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-indent: -.5in;"><a href="http://myra.hem.nu/costume/images/HousebookMaster/LL(FiledtKoko1985)/MH.YoungMan(LLcat66).jpg">Young man and two girl</a> <i> (Fig. 9) Livelier than Life- The Master of the <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Amsterdam</st1:city></st1:place> Cabinet or the Housebook Master</i>. JP Filedt Kok. Amsteram 1985. <http://myra.hem.nu/costume/Documentation/Artist/HousebookMaster.htm>. 12 Jan 2012</div>Lorienhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16771044572877731963noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7741106236844839986.post-41281873641483789542012-01-21T13:07:00.000-08:002012-01-21T13:08:59.931-08:00A&S Entries...I'm working on getting my A&S docs up here for my <i>winning!</i> A&S entries. Which should go first, Housebook or Roman Hair?Lorienhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16771044572877731963noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7741106236844839986.post-61647854928202496592012-01-14T02:23:00.000-08:002012-01-14T02:23:28.687-08:00tonight is not the night for My Love...Himself is supposed to be cooking a feast for today's Midwinter's Feast. That titular feast in fact. And tonight, after the last grocery run, the notebook with every scrap of information on the feast, has disappeared. For the last three hours, Himself has been driving around trying to find it, tearing the car and the house apart.<br />
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And right when he gave up hope and resigned himself to not finding it....<br />
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He found half the bread for tomorrow had gone moldy. He's now started baking. At 2:20am, when we need to leave the house at 8:30.<br />
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I'm of course not done with my A&S entry, but if I were, it wouldn't be a real entry would it?Lorienhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16771044572877731963noreply@blogger.com0